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RC8720EDB0
RC8720EDB0 Whirlpool Cooktop
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Manuals & Guides for RC8720EDB0
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$13.66
This chrome-colored drip bowl is a genuine OEM part for your range. This bowl fits underneath the 8-inch burner elements and is sold individually. The drip bowl is used to catch any spills that result...
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$8.39
This part includes one OEM chrome-colored 6-inch drip bowl for an electric range. This part is responsible for catching spills from cookware placed on the burner, so it is susceptible to tough stains ...
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This genuine OEM kit includes the parts required to replace a surface burner receptable on your range. The kit comes with a plastic block, a metal bracket, high temperature wire nuts, and wires. The b...
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This grease filter is sixteen and a half inches long and nine inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft ranges and cooktops.
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Sold individually. This is a radiant surface element with a limiter, and it works in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to give heat to the surface directly above it, on cooking area stovetop.
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This 8 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 2100 watts and 240 volts. It has five turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
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$32.02
Sold individually. This surface burner knob is a little under two inches in diameter. It is a black knob with gray numbering indicating the temperature level of the surface burner. Made entirely of pl...
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This 6 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. It has four turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
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$13.95
This cartridge assembly male contact spade is made of metal. These are sold individually, though each range uses four contact spades.
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This part is used as a support for the grill element. Sold individually.
No Longer Available
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Common Problems and Symptoms for RC8720EDB0
Viewing 4 of 4Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Touchpad does not respond
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Oven is too hot
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Richard from Carthage, NC
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Loxahatchee, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Right rear burner went bad
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get
... Read more
you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
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- Customer:
- James H from Oxford, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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Thank you for voting!