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MGC5430BDW
MGC5430BDW Maytag Cooktop
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Diagrams for MGC5430BDW
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$20.77
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$23.81
This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. This white silicone adhesive caulk is commonly used on ranges, microwaves, and cooktops. This adhesive sealant works to form a bond between ...
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$9.12
This part is the replacement grommet for your cooktop or range. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches in diameter. This part may also be known as the cooktop burner knob gasket, ...
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$7.75
This is a multi-use frame screw that fits a variety of power tools and equipment. Follow installation instructions and safety practices provided in the manual by the manufacturer.
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$132.56
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MGC5430BDW
Viewing 4 of 4Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Leaking
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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How to fix it
Element will not heat
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- scott from centreville, VA
- Parts Used:
- 8215557
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
top burners on stove won't ignite ,no clicking noise
remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.
Exact fit nomproblems.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Needham, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP8523793
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
spark igniter was weak and not lighting the flame.
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel an
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d remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Bloomington, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP8523793
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Ignitor on main burner would not create a spark
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas pipin
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g was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.
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