D8241RA-L Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.

Most of the repair time was spent researching the problem online, locating the spark module inside the range, and selecting the part online. Installation was easy. Key troubleshooting info for me was, if there is no clicking, the spark unit is probably worn-out. I traced the ignition wires from the burners down to the spark module, located inside a 2x3" metal housing next to the bottom drawer. I removed 2 screws and out it came. The replacement unit pictured on the PartSelect site was not identical to the original but had the same number of contacts. I ordered the part and it arrived a few days later. The old connectors slipped easily onto the new pins, and I screwed the new unit into the range using the new metal housing. All 4 burners now spark up quickly, and we saved at least $100 on a service call. It was well worth the time and effort -- thanks!

Make a quarter turn counterclockwise, disengage a burner head, disconnect 2 wires, connect to a new head, install turn clockwise.

That's it!

Pulled the stove out from the wall. Removed the left side of the stove. Removed the wires from the old igniter. Modified four of the wire ends with the proper size spade connectors (supplied with the new part). Reinstalled the wires onto the new part. Tested the burners. Reinstalled the stove side. Moved the stove back into position.

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

on my cooktop I removed the burner grates then I took the burners out removed the two screws from each burner holder lifted the top to uncover the works inside took all the wire connections from the module removed the module by moving back and forth put new module in and reversed the steps BUT MOST IMPORTANT I PULLED THE PLUG BEFORE I DID ANYTHING

The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.

The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.

To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacing the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.

Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.

I pulled out the gas range, unplugged the unit from the outlet. Unscrewed about two panels, one is the black cardboard panel located on top, then the aluminum main panel.

Located the spark module, unscrewed the unit from resting plate. Did not change the plate, although the new unit came with a new one, but it doesn't fit. So I just rested the new one on the old plate.

Pulled each wire slowly out and inserted it onto the new spark module.

Screwed in all the panels back and returned the stove to its proper place.

The range now works as well as the oven, but my broiler still does not light up.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years