MGC6536BDW Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.

Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel and remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.

Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas piping was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.

place new ones in by hand. the new ones fit too loose and if not carefull they will fall out.

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

Nothing mechanical was required! But the service was phenomenal. These are just a drop in part. I was thrilled that you had them, received them in one day without overnight charges, And the cost was very reasonable.

First I drilled out the screws on the burner as they were fused. I opened the stove top cover to access the underside of the burner. Removed the orifice holder, by disconnecting the gas line with a line Wrench and the electric cord.

The trick is to be careful with the gas line. Also when you go to replace the orifice holder you will notice that the holes are not threaded. The metal is soft and you're supposed to just screw the screws into the holes and let them bite into the metal. Then you reattach the gas on the electric and put the stove top back together.

You had the part at a good price and super quick delivery.

cut off terminals and replaced with the right size one's stove lights every time now wlrowe

had to put the old knob back on

The trickiest part was locating the elusive spark module. I am not certain I took the best route, but not considering all the wrong routes in trial and error, it was the most expedient. Certainly there must have been a single something to remove to get to this frequently faulted part..

Anyhow, thanks to the great part, the stove works really well again.

First step is to turn gas off to cook top and also disconnect power to the unit. Than using a crescent wrench disconnect the gas line going to the unit from the Regulator. Than again using the crescent wrench disconnect the regulator from the bottom of the unit. Next remove the nipple that connects the gas line to the regulator from the old unit. Apply new pipe dope to the threads and screw it into the new one and tighten down. Next install the regulator to the unit and install the gas line to the regulator. once done with the install you can now plug the unit in and turn on the gas. You are now ready to use the cook top again

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it