Models > KGCD807XSS02

KGCD807XSS02 KitchenAid Cooktop

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Diagrams for KGCD807XSS02

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This burner electrode, also known as a burner igniter, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the burner knob is depressed and turned, this part is used to create a spark that ligh...
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This is a genuine OEM Torx screw that measures 7-18 and 3/4-inch. The screw is sold individually and can be used in a variety of appliances. The star shaped head allows the screw to have more torque a...
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$20.77
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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Sold individually.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This is the burner head and electrode for your gas range. If your gas igniter glows but will not light, or if the element will not start or heat entirely, you may need to replace the burner head. This...
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This part includes the spark igniter.
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Sold individually. This knob is used to controls the heat of the surface burner on your range.
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NOTE: This knob control the fan not the burner. Sold individually.
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$10.78
sold individually.
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This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for KGCD807XSS02

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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How to fix it
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Customer:
Jeff from Lake Orion, MI
Parts Used:
WP74009336
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Ignitor stopped working on gas cooktop
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and th en rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
84 of 87 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Loren from San Luis Obispo, CA
Parts Used:
WP74009336
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The ceramic insulator on the burner ignitor cracked & the spark shorted so that the burner would not ignite.
Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reco nnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!
31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Robert from Ranchos de Taos, NM
Parts Used:
WPW10475147
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Burners kept clicking after ignited
This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
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