79043043400 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics.
Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.

Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.

Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.

Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.

First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered.
When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.

Unplug the unit or turn off power at the electrical panel!!!! I removed the 2 screws that hold the top surface of the stove down. On my range, these are located in the front, under the the top surface. You have to open the oven door to remove them. I propped the top up with a couple of 10 inch pieces of 1 x 2 then removed the screws on each end of the bracket that holds the elements in place. I used a 1/4 inch nut driver for these. With needle nose pliers, I removed the 3 retaining clips from the bracket and removed them from the element with a screwdriver and transferred them to the new heating element. The holes around the outside of the element are numbered so it's easy to know where they go. Laying the new element next to the old one, I moved each paddle-type electrical connection one at a time to the corresponding place on the new one. Put the retaining clips back in the slots. Screw the mounting bracket back in. Put the top down and secure it with screws. Very easy repair.

First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new switch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire.
Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.

Turn off the electricity
Remove knob
Unscrew old switch
Lift stovetop & prop
Remove wires from switch
Remove switch
Plug wires onto new switch
Put new switch in place
Shut stovetop
Screw new switch in place
Trim knob post
Put adapter on post
Put knob back on
Turn electricity back on
Cook dinner :)

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Open range door remove 2 screws on bottom of stove top remove top

Didn't get repaired because I could not get the right parts to fix it. You would send me a part for the oven. The oven and burner parts are not the same

However the 1a 1b etc. Are very hard to see thus the need to magnify. Then it was easy.
I must say the guy I talked to was very nice.