9114364991 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

1) Turn Power off at Circuit Breaker
2) Lift Cooktop out of counter top.
3) Remove all dials from controls by pulling straight up.
4) Remover glass plate which covers burners by removing
screws along outer edge.
5) Remove the two top screws from the control to be
replaced (this holds the infinite control to bracket)
6) Remove one wire at a time from the old control and
plug on the new one in correct orientation.
7) Reverse above order to reassemble.

(Note: Not all infinite controls are same PN when
ordering, the drawingings are deceiving that they are)

using the info on this site i guessed it was the switch. It was. this is a Radiant Heat in counter drop on cook top. i was nervous about getting it out of the counter but that was eassy, just sits on top. the One issue was diconnecting the BX electric cable from the elecric box. mine did not have threads and a nut. but a push in fitting with small tabs.. i forced it out by pushing the tabs in with a screw driver.. later found out it was a band that was eassily removable by just prying it open with a screw driver... and later replacing it.. the glas removal was just screws and the switch was insised a cover with four screws.. plugged the new one in (careful to keep the connections the same, and reversed the process.. ready to fix it again if needed!thanks for having the part... probably saved $200! can take less than 30 minutes if you get past the electric connection quicker than i did... that;s it!

Removed counter top stove, released zip ties on flex conduit,removed cover glass, removed switch anchor panel, removed old switch,(noting the color of each wire) replaced switch reassembled.

1) SHUT OFF POWER
2) Removed the cooktop from the counter
3)Remove 6 screws holding the cooktop glass frame to the housing
4)Removed 4 screws holding the switch retainer to the housing
5)Removed 2 screws holding the switch in place
6)Moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch
7)Reassembled

First removed the back of range, then the metal vent section that prevented the range top from lifting up. There are 2 screws accessable only after you open the oven door that need to be removed before you can lift up the glass top. Then remove the bracket holding the 2 front heating elements. Made a diagram of all wires going to and from the large 2 element heater. I had to use an adjustable wrench to remove the 2 studs that were screwed into the sheetmetal section of the element. Carefull not to let the springs or retaining washers get lost.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.

I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.



By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.

GE changed the design a little, moving a connector so the existing wires didn't reach. I texted the model number to an address provided with the part, and GE returned a URL for installation instructions. The instructions said there should be two jumpers to extend the wires, but there was only one, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to get connectors to make my own jumper. Read the instructions carefully for where to connect the wires. My initial connection was wrong, but nothing bad happened, just the unit didn't heat. Two mounting tabs from the old unit need to be moved to the new. Heat shrink tubing is provided to cover the joints where the jumpers connect to the old wiring. If the jumper hadn't been missing, it would have been a quick, easy install.

When I ordered, nobody (19 different web sites) had the part in stock. GE took over 2 months to ship the part to PartSelect, but finally the stove is fully functional again.

1. Turned of circuit breaker to stove.
2. Take two screws out of control panel, and lifted it up.
3. Lay panel on side and removed knob.
4. Flipped panel over and take several pic for reference of each wire and location on back of controller.
5, Flipped panel back over and take needle-nose players and unhooked each wire tab on back of controller.
6. Flipped panel back over and take two screws out that hold controller on front of panel.
7. Flip the panel back over and remove the old controller.
8. Position the new controller in the panel and install the the two screws back to secure it to the panel.
9. Attach wires back to new controller based on your pic taken. Verify correct location to pic.
10. Attached panel on back of stove. Make sure all wires are secured inside of the control panel.
11. Turn circuit breaker back on and verify the burner is working correctly.

Removed unit from counter top. Opened to locate wiring diagram. Identified part snd searched on internet. PartSelect.com provided all missing information and had easy to follow instructions...confirming my initial assessment of the problem. Ordering was easy; delivery fast. Job completed.

Turn off breaker.
Lift cook top from counter.
Remove perimeter screws from glass cook top and remove glass.
Remove screws attaching control.
Replace control and leads.
Note: 4 of 5 lead attachment marking points matched old control - I had to guess the fifth. "P" on old was attached to "PC" on new. Attachment points on new were configured differently from old. The leads were just barely long enough to reach.
Replaced perimeter screws and cooktop.

Remove ten screws that attach top then remove top. Remove four screws holding switches in place and lift for access. remove two screws from switch. Record wire color for positions P L1 L2 for proper positioning on replacement switch. One wire was to short so had to make a two inch extension to complete the hookup. Reassemble and the burners work as original.

Turn off breaker removed cooktop from countertop . Removed Phillips screws remove glass top .Remove two screws holding switch & reinstalled

Remove stove top from cabinet. surf for you tube videos to replace switch.

Getting to the control switch was the hardest. Handling our 35" cooktop was tricky. The rest went fairly easy. Just make sure you make a diagram of the colored wires and where they go on the switch. We had to expand the holes in the switch a little to get the old screws lined up.. Putting the cooktop back together was easy.

We never could figure out how to get the glass top removed to replace the burner. Looked at several instuctional videos and they never wrong in their description of where the 2 screws were to remove it. We finally called Sears Repair. They came out the next day and fixed the problem. The scres were on the side of the stove unit, not under the oven door. Oh well, atleast it works. Part select is excellent and I would use them again. This is the 3rd time I've ordered parts.

Raised cooktop......took 8 screws from trim plate and cook surface off.....removed 4 more screws off switch mount bracket, removed 2 screws from switch and mount bracket ( switch now free) ...pulled off wires and connectors one at a time, and put the wire on corresponding new switch location.... Took a total of 30 minutes.... Cleaned cooktop surface too! Cautions...don't tighten ANY screw too tight, as stripping will occur.