62922115 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

First I cut off power supply, removed screws that held panel on, pulled the switch up and disconnected wires. Installed new switch, being sure to connect wires in the correct places. Refastened panel to stove top. Turned power back on and tested switch and it Worked.

It's wonderful to get accessories for this 20 year old Jenn-Air. I love it and now it looks like new.

Purchased 1 infinite switch and installed it on the left front burner. problem still there so I used the switch that I replaced on the rear burner and all was ok. The front switch had been sending full heat to the rear burner,but the problem ended up with the rear switch. The switches are interconnected and all are the same part number.Diagrams on partsselect were the key to a successful repair.To access the switch you need only to remove the fan cover, remove the 2 screws holding the switch assembly and move it foreward and then lift to reveal slide on connectors. Power to the unit is off at the main panel during the entire process.

Our Jenn-Air cook top is 25 years old. One can no longer order parts for this old of model. We ordered new SS burners as well as new Burner cartridge terminal blocks for a new and current model. They work perfectly. Took 10 minutes. $ 350 dollars verses $ 2600 for a new JennAir range plus instillation. Unit looks and works great. Plan to order new switches next.

Turned off power.

Removed two screws to free up section of cooktop containing 4 switches - 2 good, 2 damaged. Removed the dials from top of the 2 damaged switches. With an adjustable wrench, loosed nut on stem of switch that fastened switch to assembly. Noted which of the 5 wires on each switch went on which tab. Pulled off 5 wires on one switch, finished removing the nut and removed broken switch. Put in new switch, attached the nut, and replaced 5 wires in exactly the same position, Tightened nut. Replaced dial. Repeated procedure for second switch. Placed section containing the 4 switches back on cooktop and inserted/tighted 2 screws holding it in place.

Turned on power.

Told cleaning people to NEVER put aluminum foil under the burner units again. The foil shorted across the power and damaged the switches.

I used pliers to remove old knobs and just inserted the new ones. I had tried using cheap generic knobs that did not work.

I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.

changed out switch

Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.

Removed two screws holding 4-switch panel, drew a simple diagram to assure placement of wires on correct terminals, removed and replaced switch.

Switch works fine, but original knob does not fit shaft of replacement switch. Will try to order new knob, but it probably won't match the old knobs, so range will have one new knob & three old ones. I wish the order page noted that new knobs must be ordered to fit the new style shaft.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part.
Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws.
turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good.
It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available

I removed the old knobs and replaced with the new ones. We also replaced one of the switches which the knobs fit on, because I broke the switch off with a Cast iron skillet.