9114264991 Kenmore Cooktop

Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hol ... Read more e and secured.

First removed the back of range, then the metal vent section that prevented the range top from lifting up. There are 2 screws accessable only after you open the oven door that need to be removed before you can lift up the glass top. Then remove the bracket holding the 2 front heating elements. Made a diagram of all wires going to and fr ... Read more om the large 2 element heater. I had to use an adjustable wrench to remove the 2 studs that were screwed into the sheetmetal section of the element. Carefull not to let the springs or retaining washers get lost.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.

I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.



By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.

GE changed the design a little, moving a connector so the existing wires didn't reach. I texted the model number to an address provided with the part, and GE returned a URL for installation instructions. The instructions said there should be two jumpers to extend the wires, but there was only one, so I had to make a trip to the hardware ... Read more store to get connectors to make my own jumper. Read the instructions carefully for where to connect the wires. My initial connection was wrong, but nothing bad happened, just the unit didn't heat. Two mounting tabs from the old unit need to be moved to the new. Heat shrink tubing is provided to cover the joints where the jumpers connect to the old wiring. If the jumper hadn't been missing, it would have been a quick, easy install.

When I ordered, nobody (19 different web sites) had the part in stock. GE took over 2 months to ship the part to PartSelect, but finally the stove is fully functional again.