Models > CCGP2720PK

CCGP2720PK Jenn-Air Cooktop

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Diagrams for CCGP2720PK

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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This gas valve knob measures approximately 2 12 inches in diameter. It is a black knob that has white lettering aroud its perimeter denoting the different temperature levels: low, medium, high, etc. T...
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This part creates the spark that lights the gas and starts the burners.
On Order
This jar is a little over five inches long. It is made of glass and is used for collecting the grease drippings of gas ranges.
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Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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$14.09
This rivet is an inch and a half long. It is used for many washing machines, microwaves, refrigerators, dryers, and ranges. Use of this rivet requires a rivet tool.
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$16.17
Sold individually.
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$336.05
This is a 4-point re-ignition spark module. NOTE: This part has been redesigned by the manufacture, it may appear different but will still function the same.
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$173.40
This pressure regulator is three inches long. It is made of metal, but has a blue plastic plug on each end. This regulator sits below a gas range's control panel.
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This grease jar lid is used for some of Maytag/Jenn-Air's brands of ranges and cooktops. This lid is not quite an inch high and is three inches in diameter.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CCGP2720PK

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Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Gas igniter glows, but will not light
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
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Customer:
Robert from Ranchos de Taos, NM
Parts Used:
WPW10475147
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Burners kept clicking after ignited
This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Bill from Pearland, TX
Parts Used:
WPW10475147, WP7432P109-60
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
would not stop igniting even after fire was on
unplugged unit from wall, disconnected gas line, and untaped the vent. disconnect the control knobs and unplugged and removed the control unit from the main unit. pulled the main unit out from the countertop and set it on a table. disconnect the burners and spark iginiters from the main unit. undo screws holding chrome brackets and stove base, to access iginiter. disconnect wiring from igniter and the one screw, replace iginiter. reverse everything to re-install
19 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Marlene from Dana Point, CA
Parts Used:
WP7432P109-60
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
stove top gas burner ignitor only flicks but does not light burner
If you have a burner that begins to constantly flick without lighting, and/or flicks while you are lighting another burner, it is likely time to order a new ignitor. Once received, we first lifted the burner support rack, then the burner cap, then unscrewed the nut holding the metal bracket that holds the ignitor in place (years ago we h ad to "soak" the nut with a loosening spray prior to being able to unscrew it, so since then we do not tighten the nuts too tightly so that each nut is easy to unscrew by hand or with pliers if necessary). The previous steps allow one to lift the burner ignitor up and out of its resting hole. It will be connected to the electric wiring via a plastic connector. All one has to do is pull the wiring away from the ignitor and then push it up into the new ignitor. The plastic connector protects you from touching the live ends of the wiring. Voila! The burner lighted successfully.
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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