Models > JGC8536BDS11

JGC8536BDS11 Jenn-Air Cooktop

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Diagrams for JGC8536BDS11

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This burner electrode, also known as a burner igniter, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the burner knob is depressed and turned, this part is used to create a spark that ligh...
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$13.25
Sold individually.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This screw is sold individually.
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This is the burner head and electrode for your gas range. If your gas igniter glows but will not light, or if the element will not start or heat entirely, you may need to replace the burner head. This...
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This part includes the spark igniter.
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Sold individually. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
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$55.11
Burner Cap - 6000 BTU Sold individually.
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$9.13
This part is the replacement grommet for your cooktop or range. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches in diameter. This part may also be known as the cooktop burner knob gasket, ...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JGC8536BDS11

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Customer:
Jeff from Lake Orion, MI
Parts Used:
WP74009336
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Ignitor stopped working on gas cooktop
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and th en rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
83 of 86 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Loren from San Luis Obispo, CA
Parts Used:
WP74009336
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The ceramic insulator on the burner ignitor cracked & the spark shorted so that the burner would not ignite.
Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reco nnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!
31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Didier from LONE TREE, CO
Parts Used:
WP8273062, WP74009336
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Ignitor did not work
- Removed the cover.
- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a hi gh temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works.
24 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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