CCE3401B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck

The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.


To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.

The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label

1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.

Done.

This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

I hired an appliance company to do it. But, I can pass along what I learned so you can do it yourself. Because the glass was cracked, they needed to test the burner first, make sure all glass is removed and vacuumed out before turning on. Once the burner showed no damage, they shut of the circuit breaker, lifted the cooktop out & very easily removed the screws for the glass and replaced it. Very simple,

This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill.
I did have to use the jumper wire.

Follow
Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood

Model: cve3401b

Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years


Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4a
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switch
Detach the 'compound' red wires from each other.
(The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.

I attached common female connectors.
Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.

One note:

Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.

Thanks partselect.com!

It was very straight forward but don't forget to put the control decals back under the oven.

The partselect.com had the best price and was very easy to deal with....however, what you order is what you get.....there were no screws, directions, decals, ......just the cooktop.

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

Replaced original switch with replacement sent using the part finder tool of PartSelect. Everything went fine EXCEPT the replacement switch's H1 terminal did not correspond to the original switches H1 terminal. Proper terminal connections were as follows:

Original Replacement
----------- -----------------
L1 L1
L2 L2
P P
H1 HC
H2 H1

If you get H1 & HC reversed, controls will work correctly for each of the two cooktop elements individually, but when used together, both will turn on/off simultaneously whenever either switch closes.

Lifted stove top from counter, removed screws securing glass top, removed screws from switch housing. Removed color coded wires from old switch, one at a time, and secured them to the new switch. Put it all back together and just like new. Probably saved $200 service call.

This was a countertop mounted cooktop. The hardest part of the repair was getting the cooktop out of the hole and separating the glass top from the burner box. It is highly recomended that you have two people to seperate the top from the burner box. Be sure you turn off the breaker to the cooktop first before you do any work. One time saver is once you have the top sperated from the box use 2- 10"-12" pieces of 1x2 or 2x4 to prop the top open. This will eleminate the need to disconnect the power leads (be sure the breaker is OFF). If you are not electrically inclined mark the color of the wires to the corrosponding terminals on the new element BEFORE you remove them from the old element. The element that I replaced was the dual heat element. I ended up having to change 2 of the terminal ends on the wiring harness becacuse they were too small for the new element. Carefully remove the wires from the old elenent using needle nose pliers and remove the old element by removing the 2 screws that hold the element to the hold down clips, then loosen the clip mounting screws & remove the element. Change terminals if needed & reassmble in reverse order. Once I got it reassembled with a couple of the top mounting screws in, I turned on the breaker and tested for proper operation. Breaker OFF, finish reassembly and remount. You may want to consider replacing foam gasket before remounting. Good luck... R. Moore

I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

In spite of a 10 year old model, we could find the correct new knobs, and replacement was very easy. The knobs were not in inventory but we got very good information about expected availabilitry, then delivery date. and they came very well.

FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.