CCG2423Q Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

After I bought this part, installed it and the clicking still did not stop I finally found the problem. If your ignitor can still click then it's still good. The problem is the electric connection between the head burners and the base burners (Top Assembly diagram). Put a little weight on the head burner while grabbing it with your hand and grind it into the base burner with a little twisting motion. Repeat for all 4 burners. Presto! (you could be more professional and use steel wool or sandpaper to.)
If you stll want to know how to install this part begin by removing the control panel bracket #24. Then remove the glass top w/seal #9 (after removing the knobs). You may have to tease this out because the rubber seal is sticky. The switch plate #14 comes off after removing 2 obvious screws at each end and 2 not-so-obvious star screws attaching it to the manifold #6. Remove the spark module by removing 2 of the 3 screws and sliding it out of the 3rd screw.

If you have a burner that begins to constantly flick without lighting, and/or flicks while you are lighting another burner, it is likely time to order a new ignitor. Once received, we first lifted the burner support rack, then the burner cap, then unscrewed the nut holding the metal bracket that holds the ignitor in place (years ago we had to "soak" the nut with a loosening spray prior to being able to unscrew it, so since then we do not tighten the nuts too tightly so that each nut is easy to unscrew by hand or with pliers if necessary). The previous steps allow one to lift the burner ignitor up and out of its resting hole. It will be connected to the electric wiring via a plastic connector. All one has to do is pull the wiring away from the ignitor and then push it up into the new ignitor. The plastic connector protects you from touching the live ends of the wiring. Voila! The burner lighted successfully.

I converted the cooktop from propane to natural gas, the parts I was told I needed were the incorrect parts. I called because I was not sure about the listed parts. I was helped over the phone but recieved the LP parts. The flame was very low, and i found the orifices I replaced were the same parts I just took out.I contacted Parts select and they were helpful and credited my purchase without any hestitation.Once the new orfices were recieved it was easy to install. I recommend using a nut driver with sticky tape to go the orifice holder after the venture is removed. You do not have to disassembe the stove as long as you don't drop the part. Changing the regulalor was also very easy by removing the gold nut and pulling the white pin out and flipping it over to Nat. The flat side of the pin is labeled LP or NAT. Then just screw the nut back in and tighten. The LP orifices are labeled on the side 0.65, 0.69, and 0.70 the natural gas orifces are colored black, silver , and red. It would be just as easy to go from Natural gas to LP!

Needed to remove all 4 burners to repair
one, but it went without a hitch.

Thanks to your exacting and clear diagrams, we were able to locate the correct parts
We called JennAire, but they were unable to
find the part..

It was delivered in a timely fashion and
we were able to finish the job in about
3 hours. thanks

took the nuts off &replaced the new ignited

With the help of my son, we stretched the seals over the covers. What I didn't,t realize was that the large seals were twisted in half in packaging. Once I realized that it was a snap.

Pull the knobs, undo the torx nuts, fish out the ones I dropped into the cooktop; pull the panel to reveal the igniter module; undo the three nuts holding it - then transfer the wires one-by-one to the new module; fish out the screws with the magnet; secure the new igniter; replace the panels; redo the torx nuts; fish out the once I drop (AGAIN) and we're good to go. I was almost out of matches. The most useful tool was the magnet on a stick - my fingers are too big for the spaces I had to get into. Anyone can do this, and it saves money...

The aluminum threads on the post (part15) can get stripped very easily. If you cannot tighten down the flat nut the clicking will occur.

Peeled off old seals, cleaned the area, with the help of 17-year old daughter, I held the attached portion in place while she got the remainder on. Tedious but it worked.