JGD8345ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.

Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen

Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.

I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!

Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.

remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.

Loosen 2 phillip screws that secure the Jeen Air cooktop vent fan switch and remove the 2-11/32" hex head nuts that secure the fan switch. Disconnect /reconnect the 3 wires to fan switch. Replace the switch cooktop console and retighten the 2 phillip screws. Cleanup.

The primary spark igniters failed. Take the (small) screws out of the sides and bottom of the pan. The front of the pan must be removed from the bottom, because the front burner igniter wire is too short to allow reassembly once attached. Only other is the screws for the attachment bracket are larger than the holes. Suggest routing them out slightly to get them to grip the screws. Otherwise it is quite simple. Pull the connections with a needlenose and press the new wire connection back on firmly. Screw the screws back in the pan.

Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.

The repair would have been very easy if the diagram of the cook stove control plate had indicated that the plate itself was discontinued, and either a new stove top would be needed, or a person who could do some metal cutting. There are 2 screws that hold the control plate down, and 2 screws each for each of the control posts, then just unplug 3 prongs from the damaged switch. Easy. However, when I saw there were 2 different types of face plates included with the fan switch, that were nothing like the original plate and couldn't fit over or with it, and after going back on line to the diagram and finally finding that the face plate was discontinued, I knew I would have to improvise. I took both the new plate to use as a template for the hole for the switch, the new switch and original plate to my neighbor who does metal work. He cut a new hole in the old plate, I put the switch through it and reassembled the controls and it works fine.

I haven't done anything yet because the part I am replacing is different from the one i have to order. I guess you might say I am getting screwed. I purchased the grill burner for $234.00 plus tax and shipping. Then realized I needed to purchase an igniter. My original one came with 2 igniters attached to the burner part. These new ones are all separate. $55 and $49 if i remember correctly. I ordered just the larger one and I am hoping I do not have to buy the smaller one. The large igniter will not even arrive until the end of August that is 6 weeks after the order date. I was told by the customer service rep it would only take 10 days to get it to the warehouse.The price tag is over $500 just to replace the grill burner on my stove top.That is some rip off. Otherwise my stove top is in excellent condition.

Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.