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CL4-44SA9
CL4-44SA9 Hardwick Cooktop
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$7.76
This is a multi-use frame screw that fits a variety of power tools and equipment. Follow installation instructions and safety practices provided in the manual by the manufacturer.
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This porcelain burner trim ring is used for gas ranges and ovens. It is all black in color and is four inches in diameter.
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This gasket goes under the burner to help protect the glass from high heat.
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- Customer:
- Roman from West Caldwell, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP7403P190-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Igniter Switch on the burner was constantly on
To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin ... Read more g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin ... Read more g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
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- Customer:
- Hannah from AMHERST, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP7403P190-60
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Continuous sparking on all burners due to broken ignition switch
1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).
2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both ... Read more the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.
After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.
Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.
3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.
While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.
4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both ... Read more the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.
After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.
Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.
3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.
While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.
4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
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- Customer:
- FRANCES from AFFTON, MO
- Parts Used:
- W11400301
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
35 year old range. grates too dirty to clean. Parts Select had exact replacement grates. Perfect fit.
Easy, removed from box, put in place on range. Happy customer. Good company to find exact replacement parts.
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