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JP6560C3 General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

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All Instructions for the JP6560C3
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Customer:
Joseph from South Plainfield, NJ
Parts Used:
WB30M2, WB30M1
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Richard from Apex, NC
Parts Used:
WB30M2, WB17X5113
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Heating element required continuous adjustments to work.
I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder joint. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
PATRICK from WASHINGTON, DC
Parts Used:
WB17X5113
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
I had 2 of the terminals where the burner coil plugs into completely fry
First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.

Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.

To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).

After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.

I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.

Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.

Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.

Job done:-)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Fisher from Fort Collins, CO
Parts Used:
WB30M2, WB30M1
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Surface Burners were very slow.
Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Paul from Southern Pines, NC
Parts Used:
WB30M2
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Surface element was corroded.
Removed existing surface element and replaced with new element.

P.S.

Part Select service was excellent.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Carole from Cleveland, OH
Parts Used:
WB30M2
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
melted electric range element
Because of the superb pics and descriptions on the Part Select site, I was able (with NO range model number) to order the correct range element for beloved son's stove. He plugged it in in 3 seconds, works great !
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Mary Catherine from silver spring, MD
Parts Used:
WB17X5113
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
needed to replace a receptacle
I had already removed the worn out part. The new part came with wire joint covers and connecting them was fine. The brace that came with the part did not actually fit onto the stove burner well; so I cleaned and used the older brace - but, when I went to put it back in place, the bearings on the original self locking bolt were stripped. So, I had to find a replacement bolt with a nut. Found that I had some of those on hand. Once the brace was firmly in place, the rest was easy!
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
JAMES from SAN JOSE, CA
Parts Used:
WB17X5113
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
terminal block not working
simple remove the old one, strip old wires to make longer, twist wires together, put on wire nuts.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Emma from The VIllags, FL
Parts Used:
WB30M1
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
old unit failing to heat all coils
I first removed the unit by pulling gently from connection. Replaced the new one in that same manner - simply inserting into connection.

Very easy, I'll probably try it again soon.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Dorothy from Gladwin, MI
Parts Used:
WB31X5011, WB31X5010
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
pans were corroded
Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
Parts Used:
WB30M2
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
one of the burners was not working, the terminal block that the burner pluges into was burnt
I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Lynn from Dallas, TX
Parts Used:
WB17X5113
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
The heating coil on the stove blew, or wouldn't work.
I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Paula from Dyersburg, TN
Parts Used:
WB30M1
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Melted plastic colander on a burner
I simply replaced the element. HOWEVER, the most wonderful parts of this repair...Because of the pictures and closeups and descriptions I knew exactly 'what' to order! And I had the replacement in less than 24 hours. I can do some home repairs but this company provided such detailed information AND speed of delivery...that this was a no-fuss fix. I'll definitely stop by to buy, again. Thanks!
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Todd from Mountain View, CA
Parts Used:
WB30M2
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Shorted out the burner... fat gets into the receptors on these old stoves.
The only hard part about putting in a new terminal block (and this time I had to replace the burner too, because that fried too) is stripping the stove wires, because that thermal insulation is very hard to get off. Otherwise, it's simple. In this case, I had already replaced this one (sigh), so had already cut & stripped the wires, so it was all easy. Frankly, the sane thing to do is buy a new stove, but wife is too cheap.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
maxine from Los Angeles, CA
Parts Used:
WB31X5010
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Needed new drip pans
Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JP6560C3
1 - 15 of 68