JP960SL1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Scot from Oakland, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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- Customer:
- Frank from St Augustine, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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- Customer:
- JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Two part burner, outer ring not working
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
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- Customer:
- LANCE from ORELAND, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Heating element burned out.
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
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- Customer:
- John from Fresno, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Switch failed
I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.
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- Customer:
- Rodney from Erath, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Electric range burner not working due to control switch
Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done
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- Customer:
- Van from Hyde Park, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Inner element of dual burner died
-Turn off breaker
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
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- Customer:
- Larry from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB03T10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The knobs that came with the range when we bought it from Lowe's were made of plastic. The foil fronts melted off from the heat of the range and burners.
Removed the old knobs and pushed on the new ones. Easy
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- Customer:
- paula from East Grand Rapids, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Center of large burner stopped working.
First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not."
It was a snap!
My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
It was a snap!
My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
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- Customer:
- Al from Ocala, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
RF Dual Burner out. Smoke in the area of controls
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
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- Customer:
- Barry from Bradenton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Outer ring of burner did not work
1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top
The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top
The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
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- Customer:
- david from PORT ORANGE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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- Customer:
- peter from westfield, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
outside element burned out
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
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- Customer:
- Chandra from Naugaeuck, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burner element was burnt
It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.
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- Customer:
- Peter from Abbeville, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The front right outer element was defective.
My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
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