JP3422L1BG General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

1) Turn Power off at Circuit Breaker
2) Lift Cooktop out of counter top.
3) Remove all dials from controls by pulling straight up.
4) Remover glass plate which covers burners by removing
screws along outer edge.
5) Remove the two top screws from the control to be
replaced (this holds the infinite control to bracket)
6) Remove one wire at a time from the old control and
plug on the new one in correct orientation.
7) Reverse above order to reassemble.

(Note: Not all infinite controls are same PN when
ordering, the drawingings are deceiving that they are)

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

You have to replace the switch if the shaft breaks (I think we hit it with a pot). This is a flat glass cook top. Turn off the power at the breaker box. I took the drawers out below the cook top and loosened the bracket holding the electrical conduit. That allowed me to push up the cook top from below. There is some adhesive but nothing hold it except its own weight and the adhesive. You do not need to disconnect the conduit. Remove all of the knobs. Remove all of the Phillips screws around the upper perimeter. Do not remove any of the hex screws yet. When all of the screws are removed, lift the glass cook top off of the metal "guts." At this point there will only be adhesive holding it on. Now remove two hex screws at each end of the control strip. Remove the two Phillips screws from the subject switch. Lift up the the control strip, disconnect the electric leads to the switch, reconnect the leads to the new switch, and then re-attach the new switch to the control strip with the two Phillips screws. Then go backwards. Replace the control strip and secure with the two hex screws at each end. Before replacing the cook top, check the burners. They rest on posts with small springs designed to keep them flush with the glass cook top. Make sure that all of the burners are properly aligned on their posts and springs. Replace the cook top and re-attach with all of the Phillips screws. Return the cook top to its resting place making sure the adhesive strips are correctly placed around the perimeter. Replace the bracket on the conduit. Put the knobs back on. Flip the breaker back on and start cooking.

using the info on this site i guessed it was the switch. It was. this is a Radiant Heat in counter drop on cook top. i was nervous about getting it out of the counter but that was eassy, just sits on top. the One issue was diconnecting the BX electric cable from the elecric box. mine did not have threads and a nut. but a push in fitting with small tabs.. i forced it out by pushing the tabs in with a screw driver.. later found out it was a band that was eassily removable by just prying it open with a screw driver... and later replacing it.. the glas removal was just screws and the switch was insised a cover with four screws.. plugged the new one in (careful to keep the connections the same, and reversed the process.. ready to fix it again if needed!thanks for having the part... probably saved $200! can take less than 30 minutes if you get past the electric connection quicker than i did... that;s it!

Removed counter top stove, released zip ties on flex conduit,removed cover glass, removed switch anchor panel, removed old switch,(noting the color of each wire) replaced switch reassembled.

Turned off power to cooktop. Disconnected power wires and removed cooktop from counter. Removed screws holding on the cooktop surface. Separated cooktop surface from cooktop. Removed 4 screws holding control panel, then removed 2 screws holding selector switch. Removed 2 wires plugged into selector switch. Installed new selector switch and reassembled cooktop.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

1) SHUT OFF POWER
2) Removed the cooktop from the counter
3)Remove 6 screws holding the cooktop glass frame to the housing
4)Removed 4 screws holding the switch retainer to the housing
5)Removed 2 screws holding the switch in place
6)Moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch
7)Reassembled

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

Our glass electric cooktop is more than 15 years old, but it works like a champ. The problem is that the knobs have become almost unreadable. We considered buying a replacement unit for hundreds of dollars, but first I checked PartSelect.com and found the knobs! I ordered them, they came, I removed the old ones and put on the new ones. No tools needed and the cook top looks like new! You saved the day! Thanks!

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

turn off breaker, two screws hold down cooktop, 8 screws take top off cooktop. unplug switch, install new switch. repair loose connections. put back together. pretty simple

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel