PP932SM3SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

I started by Unscrewing the range top. 2 small screws. I took off the old piece by unclipping the piece . Then I color coded each wire so that I would know exactly where I would place the wires for the new part. 30 min maximum time spent changing the part. Please don't forget to unplug the range before you start.

I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.

Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done

Removed the old knobs and pushed on the new ones. Easy

Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.

Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hole and secured.

1st replacement part was damaged from Shipping.
Parts Select sent a new one that i received in only a few days.
our stove is slid into a granite island so the disassembly was not as simple as most. It was necessary to remove the controls, the controls housing & screws along the top of the oven door.
Within an hour the stove was back in place and working perfectly.
Great service from Parts Select

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

Since this was the third time I did it all I had to take two screws out to lift the top of stove and replace element.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Ordered the dual replacement. I am 76 so I had someone else do it. It took him about 15 minutes. Just pulled the oven forward about 8" so he could lift the top up. 2 Screws to release the top. Then just removed the part and plugged in the replacement. Rescrewed the top screws and pushed the oven back.

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.