JP989TD6WW General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.

Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done

Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.

You have to replace the switch if the shaft breaks (I think we hit it with a pot). This is a flat glass cook top. Turn off the power at the breaker box. I took the drawers out below the cook top and loosened the bracket holding the electrical conduit. That allowed me to push up the cook top from below. There is some adhesive but nothing hold it except its own weight and the adhesive. You do not need to disconnect the conduit. Remove all of the knobs. Remove all of the Phillips screws around the upper perimeter. Do not remove any of the hex screws yet. When all of the screws are removed, lift the glass cook top off of the metal "guts." At this point there will only be adhesive holding it on. Now remove two hex screws at each end of the control strip. Remove the two Phillips screws from the subject switch. Lift up the the control strip, disconnect the electric leads to the switch, reconnect the leads to the new switch, and then re-attach the new switch to the control strip with the two Phillips screws. Then go backwards. Replace the control strip and secure with the two hex screws at each end. Before replacing the cook top, check the burners. They rest on posts with small springs designed to keep them flush with the glass cook top. Make sure that all of the burners are properly aligned on their posts and springs. Replace the cook top and re-attach with all of the Phillips screws. Return the cook top to its resting place making sure the adhesive strips are correctly placed around the perimeter. Replace the bracket on the conduit. Put the knobs back on. Flip the breaker back on and start cooking.

Turned off power to cooktop. Disconnected power wires and removed cooktop from counter. Removed screws holding on the cooktop surface. Separated cooktop surface from cooktop. Removed 4 screws holding control panel, then removed 2 screws holding selector switch. Removed 2 wires plugged into selector switch. Installed new selector switch and reassembled cooktop.

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

turn off breaker, two screws hold down cooktop, 8 screws take top off cooktop. unplug switch, install new switch. repair loose connections. put back together. pretty simple

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

I had to hire an experienced appliance repair man. The whole process should have taken an hour or less. The replacement part was not compatible with the cooktop. The power relay on the coil was wrong.

He ended up repairing the old part and re-installed it. The whole process took over 3 hours.

I order the correct part and Partselect ;substituted it for the wrong part.

What's worse is that I have to pay for shipping to return the part!

This was a mess.

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.

Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!