JGP636AED1AA General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Assumed the entire top of the range would have to be lifted off. Removed the three screws inside the top of the over door and then noticed the two screws holding the dish around the burner. They were tight and required WD-40 and then a sharp tap and came off.
Important: Notice the direction your old igniter is plugged into the wire. It is not clear and can go on either way.

First I shut off the gas valve below the range and unplugged the unit from the electrical outlet. I left the flexible gas line fitting undisturbed/attached to the range top gas fitting. Then I removed the two screws below the unit (under the counter) that affix the range to the counter/support structure. Then I removed all of the knobs and burner grills and gas diffusers sitting on the top of the range. Then I lifted out the burner bowls and disconnected each from their respective spark wires. Then I gently pried the range from its hole in the counter being carefulm not to break the glass top and lifted it out turned it at an angle to the counter top hole and set it back down on the counter. Then I gently pried off the glass top from the metal range base, cleaned it thoroughly and set it aside. Then, I placed the new spark module next to the old one and one by one I transferred each wire to its respective location on the new module. The instructions pointed out that the new spark module has a revised grounding scheme and that a ground wire is no longer needed, so I removed and discarded the green ground wire. I then affixed the new spark module into the location where the old spark module had been. Next I replaced the wiring harness which contains the switches for each burner location. It is important to replace the wiring harness along with the spark module as they must work together reliably to complete the gas ignition circuit. The old wiring harness simply lifts/unsnaps out and the new one snaps into its place. Once both the spark module and wiring harness were in place, reassembly of the range was simply the reverse of disassembly.

Simiple repair. Determined drip pan size (sm, med., lg.) removed 2 screws holding drip pan, placed gasket around new drip pan and installed. Repaired took less than 5 minutes.

Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

I had a 14 yr. old GE cook top. Back right burner out, igniter blew circuit breaker (I had disabled this burner many months prior to use other four burners). Cause by dripping into on/off knobs into switch. TO FIX: I looked online for answers, I ordered the wire harness, Un-plug the stove, turn off inline Gas, take off all knobs and loose items. Open up stove-top, (taking off two Phillips screws on each burner plate). Now replace the wire harness from the line voltage to each burner. The new wire was much different (improved) but it would only fit one way (after a bit of panic). I un-plugged the old wire harness one by one, plugged in the new cord one by one (same locations, colors), Lift up each old burner switch (one by one) and Install newly wired Switches over top of each burner (at a bit of an angle to seat properly 22deg?). Now the hard part, Clean all the stove, every part. Put it back together. Try it out. stand back.....just kidding. I called into site and GE help line. I finally got a help desk. Very nice and helpful to ensure me that this part was correct part# for this stove. No I did not take any pictures. Old-fashioned. Note: I ran all parts through dishwasher. This needs to unplug and remove each igniter also.

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

First I elevated range top, then removed cracked electride from connector pin. Installed new electrode and lowered range top and all was fine.

Disconnect cooktop power by unplugging from outlet or turning off circuit breaker. Turn off gas to cooktop. Remove burner top ends and knobs by lifting off, keeping track of which parts go to which burner. I like to take pictures with my phone as I go in case I have questions when reassembling. Use a crosshead screwdriver to remove two screws on each burner pan and remove pans, gently pulling off the ignition wire from the sparker. Keep track of which pans go to which burner. I used a plastic pry tool for auto trim removal, to lift each pan since they were all somewhat stuck and i didn't want to scratch the cooktop. Remove glass top by gently lifting and set aside. Lift off each igniter switch but do not disconnect wires yet. Set them aside. The link below gives instruction for installing the ignition switches over the valves. The switches go on as depicted in the "Switch 22 Degrees" diagram. The tabs on the bottom of the switch will fit over the valve screws, and the gap in the switch housing will expose the simmer adjust screw. Attach the wires by removing the old wires one-by-one and replacing with the new wires. Reassembly is in reverse order.

https://855723777883-us-east-1-parts-service-docs-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/WB00X7149.pdf

The OEM harness goes around counter-clockwise starting from the top right knob (after attaching to the cooktop power). This replacement unit will not fit in this order. It will only fit starting at the bottom right knob, move to top right knob, then proceed counter-clockwise.

Looked on YouTube for disassembly video. Ordered harness. Harness did not fit in order of burner controls. Installed harness to reach all burner controls. Unplugged wires from main spark controller and by trial reinstalled wires in controller until all burner controls would spark.

Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.

It was so easy.I removed the old part with the new with pliers. Voila/// it worked.

Removed the bowel screws, unhooked sparker wire, removed old bowels & replaced with new ones, installed bowel seals and screwed back into place.

Began by removing the front panel where the range handles are located. There were 7 screws located under the panel which required opening of the oven hood. All of this removal was a waste of time, because the range top was on hindges. The only thing holding ithe range top down was the accumulated grease and oil along the edges. I used a screwdriver to sperate the range panel. There were side supports to hold the the top up, like a car hood support. Replacing the electrode was a snap after that. Overall, it took less than 30 mins but it would have taken less than 10 if I hadn't removed the front panel.

Remove grates,pans and disk. Remove allen screws at each burner. Take a flat blade screwdriver and press in on tabs on each side of front of stove to depress keepers and lift top up. Remove wire, and keeper on bottom of electrode. Reverse for install.