Models > AK3H30HRW

AK3H30HRW (P1119911S) Amana Cooktop

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Diagrams for AK3H30HRW

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This surface element is made for under glass set-ups and supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. It has an outside diameter of approximately 7 inches (1500 watts), and is a genuine OE...
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This control hole cover sits under the control knob.
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$9.13
This screw is sold individually. Size: 8-32 x 1/4 inch.
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This knob takes a double-flat shaft.
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$149.73
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$14.09
This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This screw is commonly used in the assembly of ranges, refrigerators, cooktops, air conditioners, wall ovens, dryers, microwave oven combos, microwaves, and was...
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This control knob is just over two inches in diameter. It is white and made of plastic. There is gray lettering on this knob to denote the different degrees of temperature.
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This dual surface burner infinite control switch is just under three inches long. Using 240 volts, this switch will operate at 15 amps.
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$12.44
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Common Problems and Symptoms for AK3H30HRW

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Element will not heat
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How to fix it
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Customer:
Joseph from Laurel, MD
Parts Used:
WP307620W
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Letters worn off from knobs
Our Amana stove top letters had worn off the knobs. We bought new knobs a few years ago and the same thing happened. This time we bought new knobs and coated the lettering with 5-minute epoxy to preserve the lettering.
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Farouk from Sudbury, MA
Parts Used:
W11122012
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replacement of burner control switch
1. Open the circuit breaker feeding the range. Turn all range control switches ON to establish that there is no power. Remove all knobs.
2. Get under the range and remove the 2 hex-head screws securing the flex conduit to the bottom panel. Then remove the 20 hex-head screws securing the panel to the range. Lower the panel and place a side, and then after checking for no voltage disconnect the red and black incoming wires by pulling on the spade connectors. Make sure you mark which wire went where.
3. From below apply pressure to the range frame to free the top surface gasket from collected food debris, then from above lift our the range and place upside down on a towel. Support the range with wooden blocks so that the unit is not resting on the knob shafts.
4. The control switches are all mounted on a common bracket with two screws for each switch. The first task is to remove two screws on each side holding the bracket to the frame, and then two wire harnesses on each side. Then gently move the bracket and rotate it sidewards so you have access to the screws holding down the switches.
5. Remove the defective switch leaving all the wires still connected.
6. Install the new switch and transfer the wires from the defective switch.
7. You're done, now restore everything in reverse, just make sure all wires move freely and not pinched.
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Richard from Weatherford, TX
Parts Used:
W10823694
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
Element not heating
This was a countertop mounted cooktop. The hardest part of the repair was getting the cooktop out of the hole and separating the glass top from the burner box. It is highly recomended that you have two people to seperate the top from the burner box. Be sure you turn off the breaker to the cooktop first before you do any work. One time sav er is once you have the top sperated from the box use 2- 10"-12" pieces of 1x2 or 2x4 to prop the top open. This will eleminate the need to disconnect the power leads (be sure the breaker is OFF). If you are not electrically inclined mark the color of the wires to the corrosponding terminals on the new element BEFORE you remove them from the old element. The element that I replaced was the dual heat element. I ended up having to change 2 of the terminal ends on the wiring harness becacuse they were too small for the new element. Carefully remove the wires from the old elenent using needle nose pliers and remove the old element by removing the 2 screws that hold the element to the hold down clips, then loosen the clip mounting screws & remove the element. Change terminals if needed & reassmble in reverse order. Once I got it reassembled with a couple of the top mounting screws in, I turned on the breaker and tested for proper operation. Breaker OFF, finish reassembly and remount. You may want to consider replacing foam gasket before remounting. Good luck... R. Moore
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