AK2T30E4-P1143707NE Amana Cooktop - Instructions

Turned off power to unit.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws holding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.

Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.

Managed to reach down from the top, unscrew the old part, so I could remove from under the cooktop. Easy to trace the wires, and map them to the (slightly different) replacement. Works like a charm, and new part appears to be of higher quality than the old one.

Pulled stove out and unplugged it (energized wire at burner even with burner turned off) Removed screws to lift cook top Removed burner support brace Removed three screws to remove burner Removed connections from old burner, installed on new burner Replaced screws in burner to brace Replaced burner brace Lowered cook top and installed screws Plugged in stove and pushed it into space

1 - Turned off electricity to the cook top.
2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter.
3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top.
4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch.
5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which the infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base.
6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel.
7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one.
8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.

All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.

Dual Switch Amana Part # 0309550 is no longer available. Opted for this part. YOU MUST ALSO GET KSWITCH KNOB AS OLD ONE WILL NOT WORK Both burners are on but who cares. Better than spending $800 on a new cooktop. Turn off power. Push up top from underneath or carefully pry up top with screw driver. Top has sticky seal around rim so may require a little force. Put short piece of wood pieces across each corner to hold cooktop up. Remove all screws from around edge. Remove ceramic top. DO NOT TOUCH BURNERS Remove 2 scres on each end of switch panel. In order to lift out you must remove 2 screws on frame corner and 2 screws THAT hold burner support on frame. You can then lift up switch panel. Remove 2 screws holding OLD switch to panel. Remove wires from switch. MAKE SURE YOU PUT NEW WIRES IN SAME POSITION AS OLD SWITCH. Reverse to reassemble. Carefully test the burners before putting on the cooktop. Remmber to turn off power before putting on cooktop. NOTE: CHECK ORIENTATION OF SWITCH (COULD BE 180 DEGRESS) OFF. MAKE SURE KNOB OFF POSITION IS CORRECT.

Turned off circuit breaker and unplugged. Opened oven door and removed 3 screws holding the range top to the range. Lifted top and proped open with a wooden block. Removed all 5 wires to the element and drew a diagram of where they came from noting the color code. Removed two screws holding the bar that supported the element
and dropped slightly while removing the two standoff screws holding the element in place.
slide the element out. The problem was that the element received from partselect.com did not physically match the terminals on the original. this required me drill out a brad on the terminal block cover to see how the terminal block was wired. I discovered that the different color wires on the old element went to physically different terminals on the new one. This was even though I had returned the first element received, got a new part no from matag and reordered.
there are tiny markings on the terminal block that helped show the way. Be sure to find them and rewire according to these markings. 1a 2a 1b 2b as the terminal locations may be different.
I am happy with the partselect,com and their attention to trying to get me the exact replacement.
Also happy with their return policy.

TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Reassembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.

First we turned off the power to the range top. Then propped the range top on small planks of wood in order in order to get to the 12 to 15 screws that held the top to the base. Once we had the top (glass) removed, we removed the four screws holding the bracket that held the front and rear elements. We then removed the bracket and elements, turned the bracket and elements over to remove the two screw type legs that held the dual element. Once the dual element was loose we disconnected the wires and reconnected to the new element. Then reversed the procedure to reinstall.

Made a short 1/4" female spade to 1/4"male spade jumper wire to solve the issue. Thank you for having a replacement part.

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

It is important to remove the two screws holding in the switch first and from the top with a small screwdriver, then remove the wires. Install the wires back on the switch first to assist in holding the relay close to the scew holes. Otherwise much more of the unit needs to be taken apart.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Pulled range away from wall and unplugged it. Pulled smoothtop out a bit to clear retaining clips. Swung top up and unplugged the cable going to top. Removed top hinge so top could be removed. Put top upside down on a table to work on. Removed wires from bad burner and then removed screws holding the burner in place. Replaced bad burner with new one and reversed the previous steps. Range worked like new. PartSelect service was great, received the part in one day.

Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical arrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.

I dropped the bottom off the unit to expose the switches while the stove was still mounted in the countertop. I then removed the knobs and the 2 screws holding each knob in place from the top. One of the screws was stripped so it took some time and prying to get it out. Luckily the new duel control switch included extra screws that fit. The single infinite switch was in the front and had the same pin configuration as the new switch. It was easy to swap out. The pin configuration on the duel control switch was totally different than the new one. There was a diagram of the wire location changes but working upside down and reaching back in to the cabinet made it much harder to figure out which wire went where, and there are about 6 to 8 wires. Some of the wires were a bit short making it difficult to reposition the new switch but I forced it into position. All of the burners work fine now and the knobs fit. I did have to remove a small flat spring from the duel control stem and reinstall it on the opposite side of the stem so that the knob would slide back on with the off position in the right place.