Models > AKDG2WW-P1131623NW

AKDG2WW-P1131623NW Amana Cooktop

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Diagrams for AKDG2WW-P1131623NW

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This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
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$7.95
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$7.59
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This part sits on top of the valve. Once the knob is turned it will create a spark that will light the gas and starts the burner.
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This filter assembly is just under eleven inches long and is not quite six inches wide. It is a metallic filter and it is used with some downdraft ranges.
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Part might differ in appearance, but functions same as original. Sold individually.
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Nut
$14.09
This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This nut is used in a number of appliances. Most often it can be found in the assembly of ranges, air conditioners, cook tops, washers, microwave oven combos, r...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for AKDG2WW-P1131623NW

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Will Not Start
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Fixing
How to fix it
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Customer:
nicholas from livermore, CA
Parts Used:
1430322
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
gas burners and gas oven would not light
unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.
14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Adrienne from Lake Havasu City, AZ
Parts Used:
1430322
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
The range burners would not catch a spark and ignite. They would just keep clicking with no ignition.
I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exp osing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
James from Gorham, ME
Parts Used:
1430322
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Surface burners would not light
None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition mod ule. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.
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