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AKT3040SS
AKT3040SS (10) Amana Cooktop
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Diagrams for AKT3040SS
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.gif "SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION Diagram and Parts List for 10 Amana Cooktop")
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This surface element is made for under glass set-ups and supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. It has an outside diameter of approximately 7 inches (1500 watts), and is a genuine OE...
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This kit includes Cerama Bryte cleaner, the scraper and a cleaning pad.
No Longer Available
$121.64
This is an OEM part sourced directly from Amana. This surface infinite element switch is commonly used in ranges and cooktops. This switch is designed to turn the surface element on and off, as well a...
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This is an authentic Amana replacement part. This dual radiant element is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. The dual radiant surface element is what supplies heat to the cooking surface of yo...
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Special Order
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This is a 1200 watt / 240 volt surface element.
No Longer Available
$14.09
This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This screw is commonly used in the assembly of ranges, refrigerators, cooktops, air conditioners, wall ovens, dryers, microwave oven combos, microwaves, and was...
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Special Order
This knob is used for a dual burner and takes a double-flat shaft.
No Longer Available
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Common Problems and Symptoms for AKT3040SS
Viewing 2 of 2Element will not heat
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How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Michael from Collierville, TN
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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- Customer:
- Igor from Campbell, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Richardson, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10823726
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Outer Heater ring not working on dual burner.
Turned off power to unit.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws hol ... Read more ding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.
Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws hol ... Read more ding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.
Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.
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