AK2T36W2 (P1143704NW) Amana Cooktop - Instructions

Turned off power to unit.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws holding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.

Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.

Managed to reach down from the top, unscrew the old part, so I could remove from under the cooktop. Easy to trace the wires, and map them to the (slightly different) replacement. Works like a charm, and new part appears to be of higher quality than the old one.

1 - Turned off electricity to the cook top.
2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter.
3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top.
4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch.
5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which the infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base.
6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel.
7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one.
8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.

All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.

I removed only 3 screws that allowed me to lift the glass top on the stove. I removed the burner and I could see where it short circuited. I ordered the new burner element. After it arrived I replaced it by moving the wires from the old element to the new element, and put it back together.
I am sure that I saved at least $200 in "labor".

Pulled stove out and unplugged it (energized wire at burner even with burner turned off) Removed screws to lift cook top Removed burner support brace Removed three screws to remove burner Removed connections from old burner, installed on new burner Replaced screws in burner to brace Replaced burner brace Lowered cook top and installed screws Plugged in stove and pushed it into space

Dual Switch Amana Part # 0309550 is no longer available. Opted for this part. YOU MUST ALSO GET KSWITCH KNOB AS OLD ONE WILL NOT WORK Both burners are on but who cares. Better than spending $800 on a new cooktop. Turn off power. Push up top from underneath or carefully pry up top with screw driver. Top has sticky seal around rim so may require a little force. Put short piece of wood pieces across each corner to hold cooktop up. Remove all screws from around edge. Remove ceramic top. DO NOT TOUCH BURNERS Remove 2 scres on each end of switch panel. In order to lift out you must remove 2 screws on frame corner and 2 screws THAT hold burner support on frame. You can then lift up switch panel. Remove 2 screws holding OLD switch to panel. Remove wires from switch. MAKE SURE YOU PUT NEW WIRES IN SAME POSITION AS OLD SWITCH. Reverse to reassemble. Carefully test the burners before putting on the cooktop. Remmber to turn off power before putting on cooktop. NOTE: CHECK ORIENTATION OF SWITCH (COULD BE 180 DEGRESS) OFF. MAKE SURE KNOB OFF POSITION IS CORRECT.

Turned off circuit breaker and unplugged. Opened oven door and removed 3 screws holding the range top to the range. Lifted top and proped open with a wooden block. Removed all 5 wires to the element and drew a diagram of where they came from noting the color code. Removed two screws holding the bar that supported the element
and dropped slightly while removing the two standoff screws holding the element in place.
slide the element out. The problem was that the element received from partselect.com did not physically match the terminals on the original. this required me drill out a brad on the terminal block cover to see how the terminal block was wired. I discovered that the different color wires on the old element went to physically different terminals on the new one. This was even though I had returned the first element received, got a new part no from matag and reordered.
there are tiny markings on the terminal block that helped show the way. Be sure to find them and rewire according to these markings. 1a 2a 1b 2b as the terminal locations may be different.
I am happy with the partselect,com and their attention to trying to get me the exact replacement.
Also happy with their return policy.

First we turned off the power to the range top. Then propped the range top on small planks of wood in order in order to get to the 12 to 15 screws that held the top to the base. Once we had the top (glass) removed, we removed the four screws holding the bracket that held the front and rear elements. We then removed the bracket and elements, turned the bracket and elements over to remove the two screw type legs that held the dual element. Once the dual element was loose we disconnected the wires and reconnected to the new element. Then reversed the procedure to reinstall.

removed 2 screws holding top in place witch gave me ac access to none working part. removed 5 screws witch let me remove part, reversed order to reinstall part, very easy
Donald Carpenter

First I removed the two screws that held the switch in place and disconnected the five different wires to the device. Then I connected the five wires back in there same locations on the new part and placed it back into the mounting slot / hole. Then put the two screws back to hold it in place. Put the range's back cover back on and connected it back to the power supply box under the cabinet. Turned the breaker back on and turned the new burner knobs on high and got the red glow from the burners and the red indication lights from the range. Yeah, back in service just in time for Thanksgiving cooking. (Changed out 2 burner controls and replaced the hole covers on the switch knobs) Complete project. Thanks

Made a short 1/4" female spade to 1/4"male spade jumper wire to solve the issue. Thank you for having a replacement part.

Turn the power off. Lifted the stovetop up and rotated it to stand up in the cabinet. Removed the bottom cover and the knob. Put tape markers on all wires for I.D. reference. Disconnected all wires. Identified knob and detent position of the old switch. You could be 180 deg. out. Unscrewed switch assy. from top and removed. Installed new switch assy. after verifying detent position. Using the helpful diagram provided by PartSelect, wires were attached to the new switch. Attach points on the new switch are in different locations than the old switch, at least on my stove. Some wires will need to be re-routed and stretched a bit to fit but it all works. Turned power back on and tested the elements. All fine. Drilled a hole in the bottom cover to attach a clamp to keep the power cable up and out of the way of pots and pans. The original installer neglected to do this. Installed the bottom cover and set the stovetop back in the proper location in the kitchen counter. Had myself a beer for a job well done! The original repair person said the switch would cost $173.00 and was special order. Then he called back and said the part was unavailable. I asked him if he had checked the Internet and he replied that if I wanted to do a search and find something he would be happy to come back and install it. Let's see, $173 plus, maybe an hour install @ $60? per hour versys $58 for the switch and an hour and a half of my time. I think he's still waiting for my call. Thank you PartSelect.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

I dropped the bottom off the unit to expose the switches while the stove was still mounted in the countertop. I then removed the knobs and the 2 screws holding each knob in place from the top. One of the screws was stripped so it took some time and prying to get it out. Luckily the new duel control switch included extra screws that fit. The single infinite switch was in the front and had the same pin configuration as the new switch. It was easy to swap out. The pin configuration on the duel control switch was totally different than the new one. There was a diagram of the wire location changes but working upside down and reaching back in to the cabinet made it much harder to figure out which wire went where, and there are about 6 to 8 wires. Some of the wires were a bit short making it difficult to reposition the new switch but I forced it into position. All of the burners work fine now and the knobs fit. I did have to remove a small flat spring from the duel control stem and reinstall it on the opposite side of the stem so that the knob would slide back on with the off position in the right place.

Pulled cooktop up on Counter top and unscrewed the screws around around the cook top lifting the glass top off to get to bad burner.then disconnected wires from old burner lifting burner out and sitting new burner down in the cut outs. I have used parts select for my refrigerator,microwave and oven I can't say enough about how great there website is as well as there service.they have made a customer out of me for life and I have turned a lot of friends on to the site and they love it as we'll.