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AKT3650WW
AKT3650WW (10) Amana Cooktop
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This surface element is made for under glass set-ups and supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. It has an outside diameter of approximately 7 inches (1500 watts), and is a genuine OE...
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$72.37
This is an OEM part sourced directly from Amana. This surface infinite element switch is commonly used in ranges and cooktops. This switch is designed to turn the surface element on and off, as well a...
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This is an authentic Amana replacement part. This dual radiant element is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. The dual radiant surface element is what supplies heat to the cooking surface of yo...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for AKT3650WW
Viewing 2 of 2Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Michael from Collierville, TN
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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- Customer:
- Igor from Campbell, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
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- Customer:
- dennis from assonet, MA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
replaced heating element on flat surface stove top
I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.
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