Models > TAA400

TAA400 (P75751-2W) Amana Dryer

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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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Sold Individually. This adjustable leveling leg comes with a stop nut.
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This front cover spring retaining clip is not quite an inch long. It is made entirely of metal and is used for some washing machines.
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This hose clamp is sold individually.
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Sold Individually.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This high pressure inlet hose washer is black. It is an inch in diameter, made of rubber, and used with many washing machines, refrigerators, and dishwashers.
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This triangular main tub bearing assembly is five inches long. It is made of metal.
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Bearing only.
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This serrated nut is used for many clothes dryers. It is less than an inch long, and is made entirely of metal.
Special Order
This V-style cogged tooth pump belt is used in conjunction with the drive belt in your washing machine. This belt is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber. It is twenty-two and a half inch...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for TAA400

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Leaking
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Noisy
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Fixing
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Will not drain
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Customer:
mike from hull, IA
Parts Used:
WP40004201P
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Bearing went out causing lots of noise.
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Stephen from Kittanning, PA
Parts Used:
R9900543
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Brake pads were worn out
Unplug the washer
Took off the front with nut driver to two fasteners at the bottom.
Took off two tub springs using channel lock pliers.
Tipped the tub back for more hand room.
Took brake bolts off with box end wrench.
Put Screw driver above brake clamps and pried down to make the old brake pads drop down below th e seats and then take brakes off. You might have to use a screw driver to expand the brake clamps so they will release the brake. (brake clamps look like a pulley but the edges will spread some bit.)
Twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps and pushed new brake in as far as would go while beside (to the left or right of) the brake seat.
Pried brake clamps down and rotated brake around until it is lined up with the brake seat. Then pried pads up into the seat.
Re-twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps to separate them and pulled the brake pad back to within 1/8th to 1/16th inch of the back. This lined up the bolt hole.
Inserted the bolt with rubber grommett into the brake pad hole and twisted it counter clockwise and tightened with wrench. (If the bolt would not thread, then you have to adjust the brake pad forward or backward until the holes line up.) Tighten the bolt until it is firmly tight.

There are three brakes. Each is installed the same way. The one in back required a little cross legged contortion for me to reach around both sides of the motor and two front brake pad mounts. The key is lining up the bolt hole in the brake pad with the mount. I pretty well had it figured out after the second pad install. Time for me.. 4 hours. Cost, leg cramps, sore muscles from awkward positions, and the joy of not having to buy a new washer.

Return the springs to the tub on the front. Close front panel and return the two fasteners with the nut drivers.

How did I know I needed the brakes? When in agitation mode the tub spun the opposite direction of the spin cycle. When the agitator turned the opposite direction, the water inside went into a very strong vortex and sometimes sloshed out the top or around the top edges When there were a lot of clothes and a high fill level in the tub. We also had trouble with straps winding around the agitator. The tub spun so quickly that the water without agitation was driven to the top outer edges of the tub by centrifugal force.
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Martin from Grayslake, IL
Parts Used:
R9900543
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Wrench set
Water leaking when water level is set above medium. Wash tub spinning when during agitation cycle.
Three brake pads are located just above the drive pulley and space symmetrically around the brake wheel. Remove the one screw per brake, slide brake out of brake wheel and replace with new brake. Apply silicone grease to new brakes before installing. Tools: 5/16 boxed end wrench.
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