Models > GAL39DA

GAL39DA Amana Range

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Models for GAL39DA

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 26
The top of this part is now black.
In Stock
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This 240 volt heating element is used for electric clothes dryers. Included with this element is a fuse kit consisting of a thermal fuse, a high limit thermostat, two wire leads, and four mounting screws.
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Sold Individually. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
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This is a multi-use frame screw that fits a variety of power tools and equipment. Follow installation instructions and safety practices provided in the manual by the manufacturer.
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This screw is sold individually.
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This black oven thermostat knob is just over two inches in diameter. It has a chrome trim around the perimeter of the knob and white lettering denoting the various temperature within the oven.
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Sold individually.
No Longer Available
This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner ignition switch is commonly used on ranges, wall ovens, cooktops, and microwave oven combos. When the gas burner valve is pressed this is th...
Special Order
This OEM replacement part has been sourced from the manufacturer. This control knob is used on ranges and cooktops to control surface burners. This knob is made of plastic, and it has a metal faceplat...
No Longer Available
$12.55
This screw is sold individually.
Special Order
Also known as a spark electrode.
No Longer Available

Common Problems and Symptoms for GAL39DA

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Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Not Heating
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
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Customer:
Jeff from Conyers, GA
Parts Used:
61927
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Heating element went bad
I couldn't find any information on the internet on how to fix my dryer, so I took every screw out of it, which I later found was not needed - just 2 in the front. Then I had to figure out WHERE the element was. Turns out, against the back panel with 2 screws. I had to crawl on my belly to get in there with little room to work. Installing the new one didn't take long at all though. I also vacuumed out the inside and cleaned it well, then put all the screws back in it.

I'm glad I re-did all the screws because now it sounds brand new. It's 3 times quieter than it ever was (it was donated to me), and it feels great that I was able to fix it on my own for about $50.
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
James from Eagle, ID
Parts Used:
61927
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Taking too long for clothes to dry.
I first unplugged the dryer (don't want to get nailed with 240 volts). I then removed the two screws on the bottom section of the dryer just below the door. I then removed the two screws on the front door assembly and removed the door (make sure you don't break the wires and/or door switch. The wires need to be removed from the door sw itch prior to removing the door panel completely). I then took a flash light and look inside the dryer towards the back. I could see the heating element in the back. I then removed the two screws holding the heat element and removed the heating element (taking note on the orientation of the element). I then removed the black and orange wires making note which wire fit on which terminal. I then compared the old unit with the new unit to make sure I had the right one. I then assembled the new heating element (heat sensors etc.). I then hooked the black and orange wire to the new element. I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.

Note: I very CAREFULLY used the heating elements support connectors to hold the element in place while I started my screws. Once they were started then I could release the element and fit it properly into the housing as I tightened the screws.

The other thing that you need to check is to make sure that the air-duct is not blocked. If you have a lot of lent on the bottom of the dyer (inside) then you could have a blocked air-duct. This happened to me. I went outside and noticed that we have a door on our vent that flips up to keep mice etc. from coming in. Some of the lint that was blown out got wet from the sprinklers and calcified underneath the vent. This was preventing the vent from opening. This could of been our problem all along but I had already replaced the heating element so I keep it as is.

PartSelect was wonderful. I was able to find my parts quickly and the turn around time was tremendous. I would buy from PartSelect again.
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Doneen from Provo, UT
Parts Used:
61927
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Dryer stopped heating
I removed the screws that hold the element in place. I disconnected the wires. I took the new part, which was easy to identify and order, assembled per instructions, and attached it to the wires in the dryer, then screwed it in. I normally let my husband do these repairs, but he wasn't available. It was easy and the dryer works perfec tly again!
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