Water Inlet Valve

The other given instructions are good, except I would add 2 more things to do. Also the valve comes with written instructions, but they are somewhat incomplete. 1. before disassembly & removal look at the valve assembly and note its orientation. Inlet valve at the top. Make sure your hot and cold hoses are correctly identified and I marked the hot and cold inlet, BEFORE I removed the hoses. You don't want to get them mixed up. 2. even more important note the color coded wires that attach to the top and bottom contacts. I marked the valve assembly with the 1st letter of the color of the wire that is attached to each contact. My Maytag is over 30 years old & this is the 1st problem that I had with it. The new valve works perfectly.

Disconnect electrical. Removed water hoses, marked hot and cold faucets. Took bracket off from back of washer. This I did the day I ordered the part, on Friday. Inlet valve came Tuesday afternoon, just as I was told it would. Took it step by step removing electrical connections on old and placing them on corresponding part on the new inlet valve. Same with the water outlet hose and then reseated the part on the bracket and then on the back of the washer. I did not use photos on phone but considered it to match the new install to the original since the directions that came with part were detailed, and I am an experienced DIYer. Now with your site, I will tackel my older kitchen aid dish washer. Thanks so much,
Sincerely 66 year old granny.
tip: when tackleing a new project use an old news paper or drop cloth you can write on it, and place each removed part in order with notes as to how you need to reinstall it for future reference when your replace it, or fix it.

Turned off valves at wall to supply hoses. Moved washer away from wall and removed supply hoses from washer. Removed one screw and pulled out the small panel holding the Water Inlet Valve. Used small nut driver socket to loosen hose clamp then pulled loose all wires noting where they were to be reconnected. Then removed two screws holding the Inlet Valve to the metal panel. Reconnected all wires, hoses and screws in reverse process as mentioned above.

Unplug washer. Shut off water faucets. Remove hoses from back of washer. Remove hex screw(s) holding hose connection bracket. Remove bracket assembly through opening in back of washer. Mark and then unplug four wires connected to the valve. Remove two hex screws holding valve to bracket. Replace valve and wires. Replace bracket into opening in back of washer. Reconnect hoses. Plug in washer. Turn on faucets and you're ready to go.

Well finding information on the problem and getting the parts was not the problem, the problem was that the water valve and Rubber injector Valve were just under the lid of the washing machine, which was just underneath the dryer which had to be removed to remove the washer lid. This was the challenge. But once I figured out that 4 bolts, 2 on each side in the back held the dryer in place over the washer, it was simply a matter of picking the dryer up and setting it on the floor. Then replacing it when the repair was done. If you have help, this will not be such a big deal. I am 62 and had no one around at the time. The repair itself was easy and well outlined on this site webpage and others. There is one nut in each corner that holds the top on. Remove the front panel's two screws at the bottom and you will have access.Your going to pull the two hex nuts off the back plate that holds the connectors for the hot and cold water hoses. That is the Water Inlet Valve. Pull it through and up so you can remove the two hoses, and then unplug the upper and lower wire connectors. I marked them so I would remember but probably not necessary. I also elected to change the injector valve and injector sleeve bracket, for less then 10 bucks I did not want to be back at this thing in a few months. After you get the new parts on, push the water valve back to the rear and re attach the mounting plate, then nut that plate back to the rear of the washer. Then its just a matter of getting the dryer back on top. Take the opportunity to clean all the dust out of both parts to avoid any risk of fire. Been up and running a couple weeks now and no more issues. Less than $50 fix much better than spending another 1200 on new washer dryer.

Pulled the machine away from wall shut off water and removed hoses and unplugged machine,remove water valve cover plate with vale then replaced valve!

Followed all the steps from the video and instructions. The only thing giving me a problem were the locking tabs on the wires. Had to get a neighbor to help me with that.

EZPZ I jJust tilted the washer to access the back, did not have to move the feet, and disconnected the hoses, unscrewed the part and replaced it. One unrelated problem was the water faucets, both hot and cold had a very slow leaks after I shut them off and turned them back on again when the job was done. This was fixed by removing the handle and nut, and adding a little "self-forming graphite valve packing" to the nut.

I followed the video instruction from partselect. However upon completion, I found a leak from the aerator due to the new higher pressure. Had to order an Injector Valve Kit causing the washer to be out of service for a week. Consider ordering both to save on time and shipping if repairing an older washer.

The hardest part was pulling the machine away from the wall. One screw held the panel with the valve on it, Two screws held the valve on the panel. Four wires unplugged and one hose disconnected from the old valve. I put the hose on the new valve, plugged the wires into the corresponding spots, screwed the valve back on the panel and put the panel back on the machine.