Shock Absorber Kit

I did the trouble shooting Q & A and watched the videos, all of which are very good. It sounded like the shocks and or springs were the issue so I opened everything up to inspect them. The springs looked great and the shocks seemed good, or at least they were not broken. I did see stress cracks on the right one so I replaced both. This wo ... Read more uld have much easier if the machine were on a work bench but that was not an option. Working on the floor makes is very difficult to get to the right side but removing them did go very well. However installing to new ones was much more difficult to get the pins in because there is no room for a hammer to drive them in. I did lube them with Dawn and that helped a lot. I also used an open end wrench to compress the locking tab to get it started. If I thought I would never need to replace them again I would have put them in from the front side rather than the back. The back right has a cover box to protect the circuit board and there is NO room to work. But to make a long story short, this did not fix the problem so it is back to the drawing board. After I did a test run I noticed there was still water in the drum, nothing to see but I can hear it moving around. The clothes were totally wet. I did not notice this before so I am thinking there may be a water discharge issue and the wet clothes and water get out of balance. I the regular wash cycle the water seems to drain just fine but for some reason when it comes to the spin cycle it gets way out of balance. So I am back where I started. I must say the new shocks appear to be much better than the ones that came out, just wish they fixed the problem.

The tight confines put a hammer out of the question, so I used needle nose pliers to work the pins out (using leverage against sections in the washer) and then bar clamps to force the new pins in. Bar clamps were critical to the successful installation of these pins given the lack of room I had to work with.

Both shock absorbers turned out to be broken off, one at the top end and one at the bottom--I assume one shock broke first and the extra force broke the second one immediately or soon after. The instructions on this website are complete and easy to follow, but they don't show how *tight* the space to work in is. A 3/8th-inch wooden dowe ... Read more l (part of a cat toy, actually), about 18 inches long turned out to be just the thing to remove the pins with. I could place the dowel, hold down the locking tab, and have someone else hammer on the end of the dowel to force the pin out. There is NO room to swing a hammer inside the machine.

Unplugged the washer, disconnected the water lines, removed the bottom access panel and then removed the back panel to allow easier access to the pins holding the shock absorbers. After placing the 13mm socket over the key end of the pin, removed the pin from the back side. I did have to remove the two screws holding the electronic panel ... Read more on the left side, in order to access the bottom pin of the shock. Once the new shocks were in place and the pivot holes aligned, I placed the pin into the opening and used an 18" length of dowel to use as a punch with a hammer to drive the pins through the pivot points and secure the locks at the end. I then put the electronics panel back in place, put the back cover on, then the front bottom panel, hooked up the water, put the washer back into position, plugged it in and ran a load of heavy laundry to try it out. I was amazed at how quiet the entire wash cycle was. Worked Great!

Because I am a 75 year old great grand grandmother I followed the instructions. It took some muscle to take off the old parts and even more to put on the new ones. The right side was a bit harder. I think anyone under 70 should have no problem. I think the bruises will heal up in a week.The parts came in 24 hrs. great service. Too bad t ... Read more hey don't make house calls. All in all I feel very happy to have my washer back with just a $30.00 part.

After watching helpful installation video used the recommended screwdriver/hammer combination to depress locking tab on plastic pins securing ends of left side shock absorber, drive pin out with small hammer. Not really enough room to swing hammer, but worked o.k. Right side shock different story - after removing rubber hose shown in vide ... Read more o found that lower shock end plastic pin must have been factory installed BEFORE placement of metal box shielding electronics bundle. Insufficient clearance between electronics cover and pin to withdraw pin. Used deep 1/2" socket to depress lock tab on pin from front side, small pliers to pull pin out towards the electronics box, taking chance of bending box cover or breaking the pin - upon install of new shock just inserted pin from front instead of rear. Pay attention to plastic bushing in end of shock - pin must be inserted thru this bushing correctly...simply rotated lower end of shock to orient the bushing to receive pin inserted from front instead of rear. Must be o.k. cause machine works great now! Overall an easy repair well worth doing!

Bought used frigidaire washer on craigslist under impression that only needed belt.Replaced belt,but still had excessive vibration and threw off belt repeatedly.Next,I replaced shock absorbers and still vibrated like crazy and threw off belt.Finally realized that the bearings were out.Online washer tech said it was better to scrap out was ... Read more her because I would have to replace outer rear housing with bearings.This is not true.I removed entire tub assembly and disassembled the outer clamshell housing and ordered the bearings on ebay.Received bearings within about 5 days from bearingking and replaced in about 2 hours including reassembly.Washer is like brand new again.Youtube has instuctional vidios that show disassemble and reassemble.Took time and patience,but I have a perfectly good washer for about a hundred bucks.

Ordered the part per the video; it arrived the very next day. It took my son approximately an hour due to the awkward position and small work space. But washing machine works fine and I saved a lot of money not having a service call and a professional repairman. My son is very handy and knows how to fix things. Very satisfied with the ... Read more video and part and time it took to arrive.

one spring was broken and one shock was broken. I used a ratchet strap slung under the tub to raise it enough to install the new springs and used a 1/2" drive socket on the drive end to slip over and release the plastic pins to remove the shocks. pretty easy except that it is all done laying on the floor. I pretty much followed the ins ... Read more tructions I found on line. I had to remove lower front panel, rear panel, and top panel to access all this. Also unplug and remove control box.

First I disconnected electrical and water. I got behind machine, tipped it forward about 45 degree angle, removed back for easy excess. Placed 1/2" deep socket over back end of retaining pin and pulled pin out with pliers. Bottom left hand pin required removing two small screws that held electrical connection but from front side you would ... Read more have to remove water hose which would be more troublesome. Put shocks in one side at a time as I removed old one making sure pin locked in place and that was all there was to installation. To remove shocks through front excess panel as shown in most instructions in my opinion is a lot more difficult. You would have to lay on side, remove water hose from pump and pull pin to rear which is a knuckle buster. Just my way of doing things. Ya'll price was approximately 1/2 of official GE part and 1/3 of appliance store price. Thanks I am glad I found your site.