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Manufacturer #: 316436001 /
Manufactured by: Frigidaire /
Fix #: FIX1145040
Manufacturer #: 316436001 |
Manufactured by: Frigidaire |
Fix #: FIX1145040
Pulled stove out.Disconnected plug. Removed back upper cover (6 screws).Removed upper and lower wiring harness (quite easy).Removed burner knob (on front of stove), removed two screws holding infinite switch.Removed old switch, replaced with new.Replaced screws at front. Replaced burner knob. Reinstalled back plate, plug in, good to go.
Were these instructions helpful?
It was so easy just like your video showed.Thanks for the help.
I flipped the breaker to my range then unplugged it from the wall. I removed my oven door and bake racks for easy access. Bake element was as easy as removing two screws, unplugged 2 wires and removed the old element. Attached wires and screws to the new element, slid the bake racks back in and attached the oven door. Since I had to repair the Infinite Burner Switch I left the range unplugged until that project was finished. I removed 5 screws from the top back plate covering the Burner switches. Gently pulled the knob off the front of the range. Removed the 2 screws from the Burner switch and went to the back for the repair. I pulled out my new Burner switch to compare with the old piece and found that my new replacement part looked different from the old part. I did call for help because there was a huge difference in appearance. I was given a phone number to call because the part number was coming up to be the right product for my Model number. I called the manufacture and was told that it was the right part to which I asked if it was a replacement for the original part since mine looked different. It indeed was a replacement but they couldn't tell me how to hook it up so they gave me another number to call. This was a service center and they couldn't advise me on the proper hookup. Now mind you the old Switch has codes like H1, H2, P and so on, so I was thinking that all I had to do was look for the same codes on the replacement part and place each wire that I removed from to old to the new being mindful to attach to the same code. This is where I chickened out and let my husband do that ....just in case.....lol. After placing all wires to the new part, I attached it back to the range with the two screws and pushed the knob back on. Husband attached the back plate with the 5 screws, plugged range back up and turned the breaker back on. We are now cooking as if we had a new range! My advice is don't be afraid to TRY!!!!!! Saved my family a huge repair bill.
I troubleshot and found the burner switch output pin burned out/or broke. It took me 15 minutes to replaced the burner switch. very easy to replace. if any one has problem with his/her rang, do not throw your rang away. find out what's wrong with it and repair yourself..
Removed back panel . removed knob and switch. connected new switch. reinstalled switch, knob and back panel. Burned worked fine.
The new switch has the same terminal mark like L1,P1,L2 etc. The terminals are not at the same location of the switch as the original one. However, I just removed and reconnected the wires in accordance with the terminal marks and it worked perfectly. I saw the same manufacturer name in the old and new switch and this gave me the confidence that it will work.
Unplugged the stove from the wall, from the back of stove removed the 3 screws holding the upper cover of stove to access the infinite burner switch. Took a pair of pliers and simply removed the five electric connectors from old switch and replaced them on the new switch. There were 5 in all. I let the part hang with all the new connectors attached. I removed the 2 screws holding the old switch to the stove. removed old switch and screwed the new switch in. replaced knob,back plate and plugged the oven back in. Easy repair would have cost bunches to hire someone else. It took 15 minutes tops! BTW I have never worked on a stove before! Yes it was a success!
The switch was very easy. Just a few screws to take out of the rear panel, then pull the wires off the old and put n new. I did them one at I time so I wouldn't have to keep track. Recommend bright light or flashlight, the imprint for which connector it is is really hard to read. Works same as original, it's just laid out differently so you need to look at the label (P, L1, etc) before you move the wire. If it doesn't work right away, look at the other switch of the same size that works to make sure you got the right wire on the right prong (I initially used the wrong one, the letter I could read but the 1 and 2 are tiny). Works great now.
Followed the repair instructions at each of the parts web pages. Also found that the instructions at this location were helpful to understand why the new switch did not look like the original switch.
Front left burner would come on and not shut off or stay on high. I replaced the switch behind the control knob. Go by the lettering and numbers on the new switch, and not the location of the connecting wires of the old switch. The location of the wires on the new switch are different from the original and the after market is a different and much better switch. You Tube has good instructions, but the details are not sufficient. Label the leads going to the old switch. I used scotch tape and labeled L1 H2 ect. Use a screw driver to pry the old connectors off . Put the wires on the new switch using the old numbers as a guide (no matter the location on the new switch). So L1 goes on L and so on. After all wires are inserted and the switch is screwed into the front panel plug in the stove to see if there are any conflicts. Try it before you move it back into place.
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