M-Series Primary Dual Coil Gas Valve

I did not do a continuity test on the components, I did some research online and just replaced the high probability suspect parts associated with these symptoms. 1. Remove the three screws on top rear face of the plastic housing. 2. Remove the screws holding the top cover. 3. Remove the screws holding the Electronic Controls board. ... Read more 4. Disconnect the ribbon cable connected to the printed circuit control board. 5. Remove the front control board assembly. 6. Remove the screws of the sheet metal cross brace (on top, front). 7. Remove the front panel (door assembly). 8. Have someone lift the drum up slightly while you undo the drum pulley belt from the spring loaded pulley. 9. Remove the large drum (it will just pull out, you will have to slightly spread the side panels outward). 10. You now have access to the primary / secondary coils and the Igniter. 11. Replace the faulty component. 12. Reassemble.

I viewed the troubleshooting on your website & ordered the suggested parts. Watched a youtube video to familiarize with disassembly. I disassembled the unit & did the electrical checks & found the thermostat tested fine. So I replaced both coils, cleaned everything inside, then reassembled. Started it up and voila, works like a champ aga ... Read more in. It cost about as much as the service call. I think I save at least $100.00. Thanks

Use downloadable diagram for number reference. I opened the unit by removing the 2 screws in the front top of door on the inside near #642. Then the two back brackets #452. Took the top off. I secured the whole top unit#13 because it was unnecessary to dissemble. And you would have to open it to take apart the electrical connections. I j ... Read more ust tied it up to prevent stress on the wires. I took the front off by two screws on #393 the dryer case. You can disconnect the door switch easily. Next below has an access you can reach in and apply pressure to release the tension on the belt. Make a mental note of how the belt goes on as you have to put this on again by feel. Check if its time to replace belt also. Remove belt then drum. All other parts are in good access. I changed part numbers 729,731,550. Both solenoids gave a reading on the multi-tester. I am not sure if it was the solenoids or the heat detector in this case. But changing all three did the job. According to statistics the solenoids fail often for this problem. And changing both is recommended. Your in there so might as well switch them out (Your Call). I was able to reconnect the gas and the electrical and run the dryer to check the repair with the unit open. Reassembly is just the reverse. Wear gloves there are sharp edges, don't loose screws and brackets. Order numbers are WE4X692, WE4X693,WE4X448. I am not too mechanical but once I had the unit apart it made sense to me. Also make sure to clean out accumulated lint. I found much of it inside vacuumed the inside completely.

I replaced both front and rear bearings. Also since I had it apart I replaced the belt and thermostat. Also I replaced both heating coils. Remember to check inside and outside to make sure all vents are completely open.

Our dryer is run 3-4 times a day (8 people in my family) so it is both essential and well used. I have done other repairs so I know my way around the inside. When the heat stopped, I did some research and found it was either the heat detector or the gas valves. As we needed to dry some clothes, I bought both. They are both located in ... Read more the same area but the dryer has to be put back together to test them. I did the heat detector first. This requires removing the top panel, then front top panel, then the front and finally the side panel (Pro-Tip: when the front is removed the barrel doesn't have support. Shoving a shoe in-between the barrel and the frame will give it what it needs). Replacing the detector was simple. The wires snap on but are easy enough to just pull off. I put it back together and then it would start burning gas and not stay going. This is typical bad valve behavior, so I went back in and replaced those. Now it is drying faster than it has in years. I personally don't enjoy repair work, but I appreciate the fast shipping and accurate information on this site - it is working amazing again...

Remove two vertical screws at top of dryer door opening that secure the top to the front, raise and prop the top half way. Then, from inside of the front of dryer, remove the two hex head sheet metal screws, one on each side, that secure the side panels to the front panel, then lift upward and out to remove the front panel to allow access ... Read more to parts being replaced on the lower right front. Remove two small Phillips head screws that secure the clamp that holds down the two coils. You'll need a 90 degree bent Phillips or a shorty and small hands to get these out. If you have to use a longer screwdriver, you'll have to raise the front of the dryer tub to gain access. To do that you must open the back (lower) panel where the dryer exhaust exits to gain access to the tub belt spring loaded tensioner. slip the belt off, raize the front of tub, remove the coils and replace everything in reverse order. 30 minutes with the right tools, a little more if not.