Heat Detector

Use downloadable diagram for number reference. I opened the unit by removing the 2 screws in the front top of door on the inside near #642. Then the two back brackets #452. Took the top off. I secured the whole top unit#13 because it was unnecessary to dissemble. And you would have to open it to take apart the electrical connections. I j ... Read more ust tied it up to prevent stress on the wires. I took the front off by two screws on #393 the dryer case. You can disconnect the door switch easily. Next below has an access you can reach in and apply pressure to release the tension on the belt. Make a mental note of how the belt goes on as you have to put this on again by feel. Check if its time to replace belt also. Remove belt then drum. All other parts are in good access. I changed part numbers 729,731,550. Both solenoids gave a reading on the multi-tester. I am not sure if it was the solenoids or the heat detector in this case. But changing all three did the job. According to statistics the solenoids fail often for this problem. And changing both is recommended. Your in there so might as well switch them out (Your Call). I was able to reconnect the gas and the electrical and run the dryer to check the repair with the unit open. Reassembly is just the reverse. Wear gloves there are sharp edges, don't loose screws and brackets. Order numbers are WE4X692, WE4X693,WE4X448. I am not too mechanical but once I had the unit apart it made sense to me. Also make sure to clean out accumulated lint. I found much of it inside vacuumed the inside completely.

Our dryer is run 3-4 times a day (8 people in my family) so it is both essential and well used. I have done other repairs so I know my way around the inside. When the heat stopped, I did some research and found it was either the heat detector or the gas valves. As we needed to dry some clothes, I bought both. They are both located in ... Read more the same area but the dryer has to be put back together to test them. I did the heat detector first. This requires removing the top panel, then front top panel, then the front and finally the side panel (Pro-Tip: when the front is removed the barrel doesn't have support. Shoving a shoe in-between the barrel and the frame will give it what it needs). Replacing the detector was simple. The wires snap on but are easy enough to just pull off. I put it back together and then it would start burning gas and not stay going. This is typical bad valve behavior, so I went back in and replaced those. Now it is drying faster than it has in years. I personally don't enjoy repair work, but I appreciate the fast shipping and accurate information on this site - it is working amazing again...

large disassemble of the unit but, after reassemble worked beautifully!! correct part & quick service Thanks