Water Inlet Valve

Turned off electricity and water to dishwasher. Unscrewed the 2 screws that secured the dishwasher to the counter and laid it over for easier access to the bottom. I then removed hoses, (In and out) and removed the electrical connections, unscrewed the elbow that did not come with the part for reuse and screwed it into the new part. Unscr ... Read more ewed the screw securing the part to the dishwasher and reversed the order for installation.

Removed plate under dishwasher door, removed water inlet valve and replaced with new one.

I followed the video on the Fix.com website. It is a little more difficult to change out in that my washer is on the floor, connected. The one in the video was set on a platform. It was tough getting my adjustable wrench in there to loosen the nut holding the compression fitting and, later reinstalling the nut. The rest was fairly easy to ... Read more remove and replace the valve, since it is set just behind the kick plate on the lower left of the unit.

The repair went well and was easy to replace the part. However the water inlet valve was not my problem. The hose connected to the dishwasher was a flood safe hose and was shutting the water off. CHECK THE HOSE FIRST!

I watched the video. First, I did turn off the power, the water I had turned off when I discovered the leak so no need to turn that off. I disconnected the water line and then unscrewed the valve housing screw and slid it to the left, disconnected the line to the washer. With the old one still connected to the power, I undid each of th ... Read more e wire connector since they each were separated and I could not determine which was positive and which was negative, so I connect the one on the left and connected it to the new valve and then did the same for the right connector. Then I did everything in reverse. The last thing I did was give my wife a bill for my services. She still has not paid the bill.

The old valve had a bad leak. Removal of the inlet valve was very easy. However - no fault of the manufacturer / supplier - the brass elbow would not come loose. Even in a vise, the entire old valve was falling apart and not allowing the elbow to release. I purchased a new elbow and it went on smoothly. Also - no fault of the supplie ... Read more r, but the existing supply flex hose was not long enough, and the space is minimal under the washer, so it was extremely difficult to begin threading the hose back on the new valve, and once on, trying to tighten it. That operation was the most frustrating and took the most time. Everything else was great.

Followed the repair video. No problem.

Had to disconnect electrical connection, water line & drain line to pull dishwasher about half way out from under kitchen counter. This was necessary in order to reach the water line connection to the intake valve, which faces toward the back of the dishwasher. After all of that, replacing intake valve is easy.

1.Turn off water supply and unplugged the electrical supply cord, from underneath the sink. 2.Opened the dishwasher door, and removed the top two phillips screws that hold the unit to the counter. 3.Then underneath the front of dishwaster removed the two 1/4" sheet metal screws that hold the kick plate. 4.Then utilizing a small cresent wr ... Read more ench remove the water supply (3/8" copper line) have a small rag ready to catch residual water. 5.Using small pliers squeeze the metal discharge hose clamp and carefully slide it back and removed plastic discharge hose from the inlet valve.Carefully & slowly pull the dishwasher out about halfways. I placed a small piece of wood underneath the dishwasher which made it easier to reach & removed & replace new inlet valve. 6. Unscrew two 1/4 hex-bolts and slide the mounting bracket to the left, and remove the water inlet valve. I relpaced the 3/8" brass elbow, but you can reuse the original one, just remember to use teflon tape or plumbers puddy if you replace the brass elbow with a new one. Just replace parts & reconnect lines in reverse order. Reconnect water lines & discharge clamp, turn back on water supply & electrical supply. I ran my dishwasher for three wash loads, with the kick panel off just to make sure there were no leaks from the water & discharge lines. Then reinstalled the kick panel with the two 1/4" sheetmetal screws. Dishwasher works great.

I removed two screws holding dishwasher to the bottom underside of kitchen counter. Second I removed lower valance power from the front of the dishwasher. I turned off the dishwasher power at the fuse box. I removed the cover plate off the electrical junction box Right underside of washer. I tested to verify power was off. Once verfified ... Read more I disconnected the Power wires, Shut off Water line under the sink, and removed connection to fill valve and drain line from under the unit. I is handy to have a dish towel to shallow pan handy for excess water that may drain from the units lines.Once every thing was disconnected I removed the dishwasher from the cubby hole under the counter, and pulled it out and tipped it over on its side to get better access to the water drain valve. I used my voltmeter to test the ohm reading on the (2) electrical connections on the water fill valve. I read "0" so I knew the unit wasn't good. This step prevents you from having to lay on the floor while working. I laid the dishwasher over onto a shipping blanket to protect the unit and the floor. INSTALLATION of new Pump. After removing Bad fill valve I reinstalled the new Valve I believe it was 3 small Phillips screws. Remove angled fitting off of old valve and reinstall on new valve using Teflon tape on the threads. Hook up Water line drain lines and power wires. Before pushing unit all the way back under and reinstalling screws, I tested that water was pumping to the dishwasher. Once verified I pushed the unit back under the counter, mounted dishwasher to countertop underside and reattached lower valance. Voila The wifes happy again. Easy as pie.