Burner Head Cap with Spark Electrode

removed electric clips(2) with pliers, cleaned them with sandpaper, slid onto new burner and tightened into place.

This is in reply to receiving the Spark Ignition Module Kit #sub 12001596
I have a Maytag Glass cooktop purchased in 1997. After reading all the info given by others I turned off the gas and unplugged the unit. I then unscrewed (1/8 turn counter-clockwise) the 4 sealed burners. Then the disconnected the two wires connected to each ... Read more burner. Next I unscrewed the two screws holding down the pan under the burner. The next trick was to get these off to expose the spark ignition mmodule. It took some work to pry them up and then realized each pan had a very thin rubber gasket so nothing could drip beneath. Now my glass cooktop could NOT be lifted up (Iwas not going to pry it as I did not want to take a chance go breaking the glass!) So I found where all the wires(RED) lead to the module. I put a piece of tape on the 4 labeling them 1-4 and also labeled 1-4 on the new module. Next I unscrewed from the bottom underneath the sealed stovetop the old module. Now the next thing that needed to be done was to replace the small terminals with the larger ones that came in the kit. After that was done I hooked up all 6 wires as there are also 2 additional wires that gone on the end-it didn't matter which was on top or bottom of the module. I lined up numbers 1-4 terminal wires, put the new module back in place and put the other parts back and it worked! Thank all of you that gave me the nerve to try and fix my cooktop! I spent $26.46 for the module. I had already purchased 4 new burners which did not solve my problem. I spent $142.65 for them and decided I would put them on and my cooktop now looks brand new. Thanks again to the woman who helped me out with finding the correct part!

removed used burners with filter remover, cleaned area under burners thoroughly and tightened new ones by hand. Oven igniter easy to remove after removal of bottom plate of oven.