Dryer would heat briefly (about 5minutes) then no heat and timer would not advance. Repairman checked it out and couldn't find the problem
(1) Unplugged power and turned gas valve off. (2) Scooted the dryer out from the wall as far as I could without disconnecting the gas line (the connections were too tight to break loose, anyway.). (3) At the back, disconnected exhaust hose at the dryer (spring clamp). (4) Using a 1/4" nut driver (1/4 " socket, 1/4" open or box end wrench, or adjustable wrench will do the job, too) removed ten screws holding the back panel in place and set the panel aside. (5) The Thermal fuse is just above the internal bias thermostat to the left of the dryer exhaust. The high limit thermostat is just to the right of them (all where the diagram show them to be). Starting with the thermal fuse, remove the wires and plug them onto the new thermal fuse in the same order. Unscrew the 1/4" screw, remove the thermal fuse an replace it with the new unit. (6) Repeat the process with the internal bias thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Replace the back panel, secure the exhaust hose and plug in power. I believe that PartSelect has a video of the process, Repair Clinic also has a You Tube video of the process. Watch the video it is easy and makes sense. Unfortunately, replacing the thermal fuse, internal bias thermostat, and high limit thermostat did not fix the problem -- still no heat and timer didn't advance. Went on-line looking for more information and determined that the likely cause was faulty coil on the burner assembly. Ordered the coil kit ( two coils). -- Another week at the laundromat, PartSelect does not have a video for replacing the coils and I found the user instructions hard to visualize. Repair Clinic has an easy to follow You Tube video of the process. (1) Unplug power -- everything else is done from the front. (2) Remove lint trap and remove the two Phillips screws securing the lint trap assembly to the top of the dryer. (3) Insert a stiff putty knife or screw driver under the front lip of the dryer top near the corners and lift the top up and back. (3) disconnect the door switch, near the top on the right hand side. I was unable to separate the connector and instead, removed the door switch (inside the door on the frame, two small Phillips screws secure it). (4) Using nut driver, remove two 3/8" screws holding the front panel in place (top front corners) and lift the front panel up and off. (5) Two coils are located bottom left hand side below the drum. Two Phillips screws hold the coils in place. To remove the holder, you'll need a stubby Phillips screw driver because there isn't much clearance below the drum. (6) Unplug the coils, lift them off replace new coils, plug them in. Secure the holder with two Phillips.screws. (7) Install the front panel. Two clips, one on either side near the bottom. Make sure the drum securely fits around the felt around the door on the front panel. (8) Re-fit the two 3/8" holding the front panel in place. (8) Hook up door switch. (9) drop top panel securely into place. (9) Plug in power. Replacing the coils fixed the problem. I tested the old coils with an ohm meter after removing them. Both tested good. Apparently one or both of them were breaking down under load, which is why the repairman couldn't isolate the problem. .