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Manufacturer #: WE1M504 /
Manufactured by: GE /
Fix #: FIX755842
Manufacturer #: WE1M504 |
Manufactured by: GE |
Fix #: FIX755842
I followed all the video on the website with all the parts I had purchased. Very easy. Just make sure you unplug the dryer first. Thank you,
Were these instructions helpful?
Others with the same problem of dark marks on clothing suggested replacing the white and the grey drum slides that slip into the front drum bearing unit. When I open up the dryer, I did find that both the white and grey drum slides on one side of the front drum bearing piece had completely worn away, and some of the drum bearing piece was also worn away. I had decided in advance to order both white slides, both grey slides, a new felt seal, and the front drum bearing piece. Possibly I could have reused the old front drum bearing, but the replacement was cheap enough. Three bits of advice: 1) if you replace the felt seal, make sure you get it tucked behind the clips on the door panel; 2) if you replace the front drum bearing piece, once you have the dryer put back together, reach up and pull the plastic drum bearing toward you to be sure it is fully snapped into place; 3) after you replace the slides or felt, the drum will make mild rubbing noises as it turns, so run the dryer with no heat for about 30 minutes to seat the parts.
Followed the video that was provided on the web site
First remove top, two screws just above door when opened. Remove a couple screws holding front to sides and remove front to expose drum bearing slides, mine weren't bad but since I was this far to get to the burner assy, why not replace them. Now the more difficult part - getting to the igniter. It is impossible to get to the igniter without removing the side wall but on my unit there is/was a 4" knock-out in the side wall of the dryer to access or at least see the burner assy. I put the new slides in and replaced the front and top. Then took tin snips and cut a big flap and then opened the side to access the igniter. Now I was able to reach in and easily change the igniter, I then bent the side wall I had cut back into place and with a piece of sheet metal and some mini screws. Now I still had that knock out open so I could see if the new igniter worked and within seconds I had a fire and the dryer was repaired. replace the knock out so that no debris can get into the housing near the fire box.
My advice is to watch the instruction video from this site that arrives in the email telling you that your part is shipped. Also if the belt is worn make sure to buy the FOUR bearing slides because they will be paper thin & worn. They cost almost $9.00 each and you need to replace all four but it is worth it! The total cost including shipping for these parts and to do this repair myself was less than $70.
I reviewed some tutorial videos on dryer noises and disassembly videos for my GE model. After opening the dryer, I discovered the noise was caused by a loose blower wheel rubbing against its housing. I first cleaned lint build-up out, then reseated the blower wheel and tightened the retaining screw on it. I test spun the drum by hand to make sure the blower wheel turned freely without rubbing and noise. So far so good. I could have stopped there since that solved the noise problem BUT I also noticed a few other areas needing attention. Two of the four nylon drum glides were mostly worn through, and two were missing with their retaining tabs on the front drum bearing broken off. I found one missing glide but the other is still hiding out somewhere. So I ordered and installed replacement glides (PS755842) and a new front drum bearing (PS960316). Pretty easy to replace. The duct felt seal (PS9861764) looked a bit worn so I replaced that too. Although the drum belt (PS1766009) and idler pulley wheel (PS265721) seemed ok, I decided to replace these as well since I had everything opened up. The related the videos were really spot-on helpful. After watching them on the computer, I queued them up on my iPhone for quick & convenient reference while working at the dryer. The iPhone flashlight app was handy to have too. The most challenging step was replacing the drum belt. It's just awkward to reach and you are doing it mostly by feel. Not impossible though. Just take your time and note how the belt aligned (one side is grooved) and how it is looped around the drive shaft & idler pulley wheel. I find using a cup is handy for keeping all the screws together. And make sure you have enough space to work. Overall, the whole process was fairly easy.
I looked at the video on this site for replacing that part. If you watch the video you will have no proplem. It took me 20 mins to do the repair, may have been quicker if my hands would have been smaller to connect the wires back in the front panel.
I watched your video first. Pulled out two screws and removed the top, took one screw out on the left and right side so the front of the dryer could be removed. I then pulled the old Drum bearing out, installed the drum bearing slides in the new drum bearing then put it back together the way I took it apart. No problem!! Saved me a bunch of money and my dryer is repaired. Thanks!!
Followed video instructions. Piece of cake. Thank you!
T he crack was noticed by the clickimng noise as it traveled over the bearings and by the pieces of felt in the lint filter.My first repair was a few weeks ago, before I noticed the drum was cracked. I replaced the front drum bearings and felt seal. The problem continued and I again removed the dryer front to try and find the source of the clicking noise. By slowly rotated the drum and used my finder tips I found the drum crack. The drum was easily replaced from the front of the drier. Nothing else to remove except the belt. Just pull the drum straight out. It was a tight fit to slide it out between the two side panels and I found that it helped to spread the side panels slightly apart while pulling the drum out. My wife helped. Slip the new one in, replace the belt, and reinstall the dryer front.
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