High Limit Thermal Fuse

Third time's the charm. Had this repair down to about 30-40 mins or less on third try. Fuse blew, I watched how-to videos online and made the replacement. First time through, I took my time and it took a while. Fuse blew again. Local repair shop told me that 90% of fuses blown in dryers are caused by blocked vents. They also said they usually change the fuse and the thermostat at the same time. I changed the fuse again and, this time also the thermostat (really easy since it's right up front in the machine), then ran the dryer through a few cycles with the duct disconnected in back. That was a dusty thing to do, but the dryer ran perfectly and it confirmed that the problem was likely a blockage. Called a company to clear out the vent - and, sure enough, it was clogged. Since then everything's worked perfectly. Dryer air output is noticeably stronger and load cycling time is reduced as well.

First I watched the video on line and saw how the tech did the repair. When I went into my dryer I soon found that it was not the same to take the front door off my dryer as it was when the tech did it in the video. My dryer has two buts that are at the bottom of the dyer that have to be removed and then a panel can be removed from below the door. This will expose the motor assembly and the bottom of the lint Duct assembly. Then there are two nuts that hold the door on at the bottom of the door. once those were removed i simply lifted the door off and the rest of the installation went the way the video went. The only think I wish there would have been is a video for my model that showed how that heating element went in. i had the whole back of the drum mount detached and I really didn't have to do that at all. I could have simply unscrewed the element and put the parts in I needed to and I would have been done. Anyway Im glad it worked out the way it did. I got to clean out the all the lint and it looked like a new dryer when I was finished.

This model dryer does not disassemble as shown in the video. Remove the bottom front plate (2 bolts). Then remove two bolts at the bottom of the door and pull down. You may need to disengage the clips at the top with a putty knife. Remove two bolts holding clips that secure the top to raise it. However, for this repair, it was only necessary to remove the bottom plate (unless you have short arms). The drum does not need to come out. Two accessible bolts secure the heating element to the back. It will slide down from behind the drum. The Thermal Fuse and Limit Thermostat are mounted to it. Remember to unplug the dryer first!

Opened the front cover used my drill with a nut driver .Took screws out slide the element out. Unplug the wires from low limit thermostat and the high limit fuse replace them. Reinstalled. Thats was the solution. (Took pictures of the wires connection. ) worked out great . thanks

After replacing the heating element and high limit fuse, I pulled the front cover to examine the felt cylinder seal. At this point I saw that a dryer sheet had entered the squirrel cage blower and completely conformed to the inner shape of the fan like a Melitta coffee filter. It had a half inch cylinder of lint packed into it like coffee grounds! Guess I didn't need those parts, but already installed so what the heck. Also made about $0.75 in loose change and three gameboy games that had been lost for a while.Best part of the job was vacuuming out all the lint before a fire started.

This is the second time I have had to replace this switch. It triggers when the dryer gets to hot and it shuts down the heating element. unfortunately once it trips it needs to be replaced. I removed the front cover and the switch is visible in the bottom left on the back wall of the dryer. I can reach the switch but it is a stretch. AFTER UNPLUGGING DRYER, remove the two connections to the switch and then using a long nut driver remove the two screws securing the switch and remove. Screw in new switch, replace leads. While cover is off remove any lint buildup. Replace cover, and plug back in and you are back in business, Heat returns!!

replaced the High limit thermal fuse and the radiant flame sensor but did not solve the problem as it turned out

I disconnected the power supply,then I pop the top of the Appliance up and removed the door and took off two screws that hold the front panel. The Thermal Fuse and the High Limit Thermal Fuse are located thru the front b bottom of the Dryer no need to remove the drum with small ratchet and installed the parts.

removed heater element and replaced the thermal fuse and limit thermostat.Two screws on each using a nut driver.Make sure you keep the wires located properly.One thing of caution,when replacing a bad dryer element with a new one don't be cheap and replace the fuse and limit thermostat at the same time.this will save doing this twice

Dryer would run, but there was no heat. Found that lint had clogged the dryer vent past the lint screen. Tested the thermal limit fuse with a multimeter and found that it was open. Easy to replace, opened the front of the dryer, was able to disconnect and remove the thermal limit fuse without removing the drum. Replaced the fuse with a new part and cleaned out all the lint from inside the dryer. Also cleaned out the dryer vent (I used a leaf blower, but you want to be *really* careful about using this indoors, our dryer is right next to the garage.) Reassembled dryer and it works great.