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Manufacturer #: 154637401 /
Manufactured by: Frigidaire /
Fix #: FIX1990907
Manufacturer #: 154637401 |
Manufactured by: Frigidaire |
Fix #: FIX1990907
At first I thought the Timer was bad because it was stalling. The Timer only malfunctioned in High Temp Wash or High Temp Rinse mode. After removing and checking the timer, I determined it was working OK. Someone mentioned that a bad thermostat could cause the Timer to stall, but I wasn't having any problems with hot water temperature. I noticed the detergent wasn't dissolving completely, and the water flowing into the tub sounded weak, so I replaced the water inlet valve. This solved all my problems. Dishes are coming out sparkling clean and the Timer doesn't stall in High Temp mode. I just followed the video on Part Select to make the repair. I didn't pull out the whole dishwasher from the counter and I removed the Lower Door panel in addition to the Kick Plate. Removing the Lower Door Panel provided easier access to the valve. I hope this helps other people troubleshoot their dishwasher. Once again this site saved me a chunk of money.
Were these instructions helpful?
Turn off water supply. Remove inlet hose. Remove front kick plate. Remove filler tube. Remove screws securing water inlet valve. Remove electrical connector from water inlet valve. Reverse procedure with new water inlet valve. Turn water supply on. Check for leaks. Success.
Just took out the old and replaced with the new. It's in front of the appliance, on the bottom, so it was easy to get to. Just like your video demonstrated.
Had to move dishwasher out to replace the supply line (didn't have a separate shutoff or a union). After that was out of the way it took me less than ten minutes to replace the valve. If you have to do it this way-don't forget to turn off the electric power. Otherwise it's a piece of cake to do.
I cut off the power and the water. Then I opened the door and removed the two screws up top anchoring it to the counter. Next i pulled it far enough out of its niche (a little over a foot) that I could get at the valve from the side easily. I've done several of these before and find that, while it's possible to change them working strictly from the front, it's actually quicker and much easier to pull them out a bit. Then I removed the kick panel, (two more screws) and slid a small shallow pan underneath the pump to catch the water. Next, I pulled the electrical clip off the solenoid. I used open end wrenches to unscrew the supply hose and pliers to loosen the spring clamp on the fill tube and slide it out past the end of the outlet nipple. The tube stuck a little bit but was not hard to twist off by hand. Finally, I removed the two screws holding the valve to the frame and pulled it out. I screwed the new valve into place and attached everything in the opposite order I took them off. The nipple for the fill tube came out of the new valve at a different angle from the old one so I had to adjust the tube a little. I turned on the water and power and checked for leeks. Then I put it back in its hole.
My son helped me flip the dishwasher on its side. I unscrewed the bolts on side of water inlet value, unscrewed the water hose and another hose. put in new water inlet value and reattached other hose, turned dishwasher on and YES I could here the water in the dishwasher. I went one step further and opened dishwasher to make sure it was really water spraying in there and again YES it was. I was so happy I fixed my dishwasher without paying hundreds of dollars for a repair person or buying a new dishwasher, It cost me a whopping $25.18 to fix not including shipping cost.
Just disconnect the power plug, shut off the water supply, disconnect the supply and drain hoses removed the two screws anchoring the unit and slid it out. I laid it on its side and the repairs were simple. The motor comes out after a little twisting to unseat the seal. Be sure to lube the new o-rings with a little dishsoap and it will go in easy. The water inlet valve was very easy to replace, no instructions necessary.
replaced water inlet valve
I ordered the top 3 parts in terms of probability of solving the problem (water inlet valve, tub gasket, and bottom door gasket). I installed all 3 and it did not solve the door leak. Then I realized that the bottom door gasket had come out (in other words, I had not installed it properly). I reinstalled the bottom door gasket (a critical point is that it has to be *pressed in* firmly -- there should be some resistance), and it worked. Note that the bottom door gasket is a hybrid between a true seal and a splash guard. The notch in the middle is designed to drain water from the door back into the tub. Because of that notch opening, there is sputtering and splashing at various points of the wash cycle. This appears to be by design, and those splashes result in water being absorbed by the insulating foam. Thank you to the previous submission/posting authors, as this is what clued me in.
Basically, I found the online video on the website to be a great tool. Followed the instructions, and everything went together perfectly.
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