MFI2569YEM0 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!

Remove Crisper drawers from Bottom Shelf.
Remove glass from the top of Bottom Shelf.
Drop new Crisper frame center rail into slots on the top of the Bottom Shelf shelf.
Replace glass onto the top of the Bottom Shelf.
Slide drawers between left and right guides and the Crisper frame center rail.

Total repair time less than one minute.
No tools required.

The switch-out of the water filter was simple with good instructions on the box.
The part was delivered very, very quickly!

I unscrewed the old one and replaced it with the new one. The real benefit was I got the exact part I needed w/o a 30 minute drive and sales people that ignored me. I had gone to the local store the day before and come home with the wrong part because i could not get assistance and the part # I had did not match what was labled on the package. I used the same part # on the website and got exactly what was needed, less that 48 hrs after I ordered it. thanks for the prompt service. we will be a repeat customer

The video on website is very good and explains everything in detail. Just follow the directions. This is EASY!!!!

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

unscrewed to removed old and screwed in new

Changing the KITCHENAID MOTOR ASSEMBLY TO THE ICE-MAKER was fairly straightforward. The hardest part was figuring out WHAT was broken and how to fix it. I was determined to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing it myself and avoiding a visit by the 'repairman'.

1.) Went to KitchenAid website to look at Parts List for my side-by-side refrigerator and ice maker assembly (a PDF file, easily downloadable) . The illustrations helped me visualize the assembly and various parts involved.
2.) Removed cover on front of ice maker.
3.) Removed hex-head screw on undersurface of icemaker on the right, which stablilizes a plastic cover for the electrical connector to the ice maker. Once this is off, it's then possible to slide the ice maker out.
4.) Slide the ice maker out from it's 'shelf' in the freezer. You won't be able to completely remove it until you disconnect the power supply.
5.) Disconnect the multi-pin power connector. (It's probably safest to unplug the refrigerator altogether before doing this, but I did not. No exposed metal wiring or connectors. No problems when I did it this way.)
6.) Once the ice-maker was out, remove the white cover from the motor assembly (on the left side of the unit).
7.) Remove the three screws from the black housing of the motor assembly. (This is where I discovered that the connector between the motor and drive-train was broken and needed to be replaced.)
8.) Remove and replace the drive system for the ice cube ejector.
9.) Then reverse the steps to reassemble.

This may seem a bit vague, but it's really quite straightforward once the ice maker is out of the freezer. The replacement motor assembly includes the motor, the motor housing, the drive-train, and the ice-cube ejector. Very easy to re-asemble.

Shopping for and ordering the part took some time since there are so many different after-market parts dealers. In all honesty, I'm glad I decided on PartSelect.com. They had a decent price, safe checkout, and timely delivery. All the essentials of a good online store.

Thanks, and good luck to the next guy who has to deal with a KitchenAid snafu.

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

We had periodic leaks from under the Unit from new, could never figure out where it was coming from. Finally as it began to cause damage to surrounding cabinets, we took the back off and found the multiple cracks in the drip pan. Someone had hand trucked it from the wrong side! It was difficult to figure out the fan removal (it sits in the pan) but push the top forward and pull the bottom back and the fan came out. Then the pan was simple to remove / replace, by reversing the removal procedure, the fan was re installed.

I removed and replaced the suspect Control board. The problem with the select switch not responding still existed. I then ordered a new “PS2371545 Dispenser Front Overlay – Black”. This cured all but one of the non responsive select switch problems. I notified PartSelect that I received a defective board and they promptly sent a replacement Overlay. This cured my problem. Thank you for your Help with my problem. I highly recommend your company. Bill S.