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CSF22MTF
CSF22MTF Hotpoint Refrigerator
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$8.56
The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
In Stock
In Stock
$198.31
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion. The fan itself has two 1/4 inch spade terminals. It carries 2 watts and 115 volts. This motor NO longer comes with cover for terminals.
On Order
$22.09
This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Use it for your GE brand refrigerator.
In Stock
$43.92
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for twenty-five minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, but its terminals are bent and the leads are external.
In Stock
$123.37
This double outlet valve has a garden hose thread for a tubing adapter, and is intended for use with refrigerators that have icemakers that make round ice cubes.
In Stock
NOTE: This it is just the heaters and the jumper wires between the two heaters.
No Longer Available
$75.49
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's stack is 3/8 of an inch, and the motor has two terminals: one on the right side, and one on the left side. Use this evap...
In Stock
$171.40
This white door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
Special Order
This newly redesigned icemaker seal kit comes with a new shaft, seal and screw.
No Longer Available
This gray door gasket kit is cut to fit your refrigerator, though some assembly is required. Use it for your GE brand refrigerator.
Special Order
Special Order
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CSF22MTF
Viewing 5 of 5Light not working
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Noisy
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Fridge too warm
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Leaking
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Freezer section too warm
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10725
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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- Customer:
- Jania from Novato, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10725
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The refrigirator light would not come on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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- Customer:
- Terry from Simi Valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10725
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s
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o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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