Models > F9027*0

F9027*0 Roper Range

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Diagrams for F9027*0

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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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This 6 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. It has four turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
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This electric range delta frame surface element with looped terminal ends measures eight inches and has five turns. It carries 2600 watts the center medallion is black in color.
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This push-to-start Robertshaw style replacement for load rated switches has a clockwise rotation. It also has a break off shaft, and comes with plastic adapters.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for F9027*0

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Element will not heat
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How to fix it
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Customer:
Edward from Malvern, AR
Parts Used:
4391989
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner would not heat
First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.
27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Phillip from Pekin, IL
Parts Used:
330031
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Ronald from McClelland, IA
Parts Used:
4391989
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
burner quite heating discovered switch was the problem
lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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