Models > F9157W0

F9157W0 Roper Range

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Manuals & Guides for F9157W0

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This chrome drip bowl is an OEM approved replacement part designed for use with various models of electric ranges and cooktops. This drip bowl fits under 6-inch burner elements and has a diameter of a...
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The drip bowl is found underneath the burner element of ranges with a rolled terminal style plug-in surface element. The purpose of the bowl is to catch any drips or spills that may occur while cookin...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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This tub spring is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washing machine and is sold individually. There are other names that the tub spring goes by, such as the suspension spring, balance spring, o...
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This 6 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. It has four turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
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This temperature sensor is used with self cleaning ovens. Its 1000 ohm resistance increases with temperature. This sensor has male leads and comes with ceramic wire nuts.
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This electric range delta frame surface element with looped terminal ends measures eight inches and has five turns. It carries 2600 watts the center medallion is black in color.
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The drum baffle lifts and tumbles the clothes inside the drum as the drum rotates during the drying cycle.
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This push-to-start Robertshaw style replacement for load rated switches has a clockwise rotation. It also has a break off shaft, and comes with plastic adapters.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for F9157W0

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Shaking and Moving
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Oven not heating evenly
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Customer:
Charles from Brecksville, OH
Parts Used:
8053344
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
F3 Error message
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the strin g still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!
157 of 198 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Lori from Parchment, MI
Parts Used:
WPW10250667
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers
sounded out of balance even after shifting clothes
The tub was out of alignment and water fell behind it and onto the floor. My brother-in-law suggested my problem could be the tub balancing spring and when I moved my washing machine, there it was on the ground.
The schematic does not show where it hooks up. So after I did what I thought looked right, the machine still did not wo rk properly. Then I replaced the three suspension springs and that didn't solve the problem.
I found a whirlpool "do-it-yourself" repair book at the library and was prepared to tear into the machine. However, I did not have the tub balancing spring in the correct spot at one end. It hooks up from one of the outer bracket to the back of the housing unit along between the legs. There is a hole that had rusted through. I simply drilled a new hole nearby and low and behold it works!
Easy fix - the frustration was with the poor schematic.
35 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Edward from Malvern, AR
Parts Used:
4391989
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner would not heat
First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.
27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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