Models > S8757W1

S8757W1 Roper Range

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Diagrams for S8757W1

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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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This motor fits most Whirlpool incorporated dryer brands before 1996. NOTE: Pulley is NOT available separately.
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This round style carborundum gas oven igniter has 10 inch lead and amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0 amps. Be very careful when handling this igniter as it is very fragile. Please note - The bracket ...
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This temperature sensor is used with self cleaning ovens. Its 1000 ohm resistance increases with temperature. This sensor has male leads and comes with ceramic wire nuts.
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$8.04
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for S8757W1

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Element will not heat
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Noisy
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Won’t Start
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Drum Not Spinning
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Customer:
Charles from Brecksville, OH
Parts Used:
8053344
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
F3 Error message
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the strin g still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!
157 of 198 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
James from Moscow, IA
Parts Used:
279827
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Make humming noise when pressing start button. Would not start
After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.
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Customer:
Mark from Rego Park, NY
Parts Used:
4342528
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
The lower burner would not ignite.
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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