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MBR4450BGW
MBR4450BGW Maytag Range
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Diagrams for MBR4450BGW
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If your gas range is not lighting or coming up to temperature, there may be an issue with the igniter. The igniter is used to create a spark that lights the gas, and if it is glowing but will not ligh...
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This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode. Please note this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket. Sold individually.
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$90.62
This is an oven rack for your range. It is a stable surface for your cookware to sit when baking and broiling. It measures to be roughly 23 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is made of durable metal ...
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$61.25
This door seal is fifty-three inches long. It is all black in color and is made of rubber. There are metallic clips sticking out of this seal at various points. These clips help to secure the seal to range doors.
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Order within the next 1 hr and 24 mins and your part ships today!
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Order within the next 1 hr and 24 mins and your part ships today!
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Order within the next 1 hr and 24 mins and your part ships today!
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Order within the next 1 hr and 24 mins and your part ships today!
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Order within the next 1 hr and 24 mins and your part ships today!
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Order within the next 1 hr and 24 mins and your part ships today!
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MBR4450BGW
Viewing 9 of 9Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
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How to fix it
Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Gas smell
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- James from Berwick, ME
- Parts Used:
- 74007498
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My ... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My ... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
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- Customer:
- Matthew from Brookfield, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP3412D024-26
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the ... Read more gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
If the ... Read more gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
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- Customer:
- Theresa from Yorkville, IL
- Parts Used:
- 74007498
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this o
... Read more
ne. $40.00 beats $700.00
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