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38H-42T-EV
38H-42T-EV ((1X)) Maytag Range
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This chrome drip bowl is an OEM approved replacement part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Drip bowls are a part for your cooktop, positioned underneath the burner to catch spills. This drip bo...
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This genuine OEM kit includes the parts required to replace a surface burner receptable on your range. The kit comes with a plastic block, a metal bracket, high temperature wire nuts, and wires. The b...
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$34.75
This is a factory-certified oven sensor kit with two harness adapters. Its purpose is to sense the temperature inside the oven. Replacing this part can fix an oven that is not reaching the proper temp...
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NOTE: The manufacturer recommends that you replace the burner receptacle at the same time.
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The manufacturer suggests replacing the receptacle at the same time.
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$34.09
It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
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This spade style bake element with push on wire terminals is 15 inches long and 19 inches wide. The depth of the terminals is three inches.
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$111.51
This kit includes two 8" elements, two 6" elements, four receptacles and any remaining hardware needed for installation.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 38H-42T-EV
Viewing 10 of 10Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
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How to fix it
Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Touchpad does not respond
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Will not program
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Door won’t close
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Little to no heat when broiling
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Richard from Carthage, NC
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
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- Customer:
- David from Westford, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening,
... Read more
reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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- Customer:
- charles from marstons mills, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F1-1 code
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Fa
... Read more
ilure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
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