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RB942G*02
RB942G*02 Hotpoint Microwave Oven Combo
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Diagrams for RB942G*02
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$51.36
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
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$14.77
This six inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with looped terminal style surface mount burner element units.
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This ceramic terminal block kit includes one ceramic block and terminal assembly with mounting bracket. Terminal blocks generally provide an easy solution for connecting individual wires.
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This part fits most ranges where a ceramic terminal block is used.
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$8.54
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
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$30.07
This is a broiler pan for your range. It catches drippings from the cookware, when broiling in the oven. This assembly includes the grill/grate and the bottom pan. These parts are made of porcelain. T...
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$9.12
These are replacement screws designed to fit your range. They are made of metal and are approximately ¼ inch long. They come in a package of 12. These are OEM parts sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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Questions and Answers
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Common Problems and Symptoms for RB942G*02
Viewing 3 of 3Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
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Won’t turn on
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How to fix it
Timer will not advance
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- David from Owings Mills, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB19X10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Electronic Timer went out and Top Oven No Longer worked
There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove b
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efore the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.
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- Customer:
- Maxwell from RINGWOOD, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB19X10006
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Mechanical/electrical clock/timer not working
Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for
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a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.
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- Customer:
- Theodore from Atwater, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB19X10006
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Old mechanical timer worn out.
This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.
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It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.
It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.
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