DPGT750EC1PL Dryer - Instructions

Removed the old one and put the new one in the slot.

Replaced thermal fuse

Handed the parts to my son-in-law he's very mechanically inclined had the job done in 20 minutes

I followed the video instructions that were supply on your site

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

This was a fairly complex repair as almost everything had to be removed to get to the blower motor.

Tip - Keep track of the screws and where they came out. We taped the screws to the parts they came out of making re-assembly much easier.

Needs a #2 screwdriver. A #1 is too small and can strip the screws.

First remove the control panel and disconnect all the wires. Open the platic power box and disconnect all the connecting wires and disconnect the three ground wires from the back of the dryer.

You need to remove the top of the Dryer. It has 2 screws in the read and clips at the front. Under that is a metal plate. To remove this, first pop out the plastic connectors that hold the wiring up. Remove the screws from the 2 long plastic pieces on each side. Slide the plastic connectors to release, then remove them and remove the top.

You should now be able to see the dryer drum.

Front - Remove the two metal triangle pieces at the front top of the dryer.

Remove the door by removing the hinges.

Disconnect wiring for light and door switch - we had a problem disconnecting the door switch, so left it connected - which meant that once the front of the dryer was removed, it couldn;t be moved away. Not a big problem, but a little inconvenient.

Be careful with the door switch. I opened it in an attempt to disconnect it and a little black square fell out. I put it back together, but then it didn't work properly when replaced and I had to take it out again and try it in different diretions until it worked properly again.

Remove the front of the dryer.

Take out the lint trap.

Unscrew the metal plate from the front of the blower.

You should now be able to reach underneath and feel the belt that turns the drum. This belt goes all the way around the drum and then down underneath to another motor. There is a tension bar that keeps the belt tight. Before removing the belt - make sure you know how the belt goes around the motor and tension bar - you'll need to reconnect it later.

Once the belt is free - you can remove the drum.

Disconnect the wiring for the blower motor and unscrew the blower motor from the base of the dryer.

Remove the nut on the front to remove the plastic fan cover. Remove clamps to release motor.

Replace part and reassemble.

order start button and was sent thermal, reordered and rep sent me a button that was not for my machine even though she had model no.,called third time and was told I had to order new control panel but they were not being manufactured any more.so it is not fixed

We replaced the drum belt and the rollers. Everything was very easy and straightforward but took a fair bit of time due to the extensive disassembly required. We followed the video available on the website for the belt replacement, which was very clear and accurate. Unfortunately, the rollers we received used a different attachment method than the OEM rollers which are depicted in the video provided. Instead of attaching from the front with a triangular plastic lock washer, they had to be attached via a nut on the back side of the roller. This required some improvisation and was a little more involved. For the rear rollers, we actually had to remove another panel to access the nuts, which was not described in the video. Nevertheless, we managed to get everything replaced and the dryer is working like it was the day we bought it.

Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

Entered dryer from rear exhaust port. Removed 2 screws and 2 clip on wires. A little awkward of process but superior method over disassembly of drum and main parts.

Put the new lint filter in and it was completed

One of the roller assembly froze up & had a flat spot on it. There for causing the drum not to rotate. Pulled it out replaced the roller & up & running.

Removed the old damaged filter and replaced it a new one.

Take old one out and slide new filter in.