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CCE1400W
CCE1400W Jenn-Air Cooktop
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Diagrams for CCE1400W
Viewing 2 of 2Manuals & Guides for CCE1400W
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This genuine OEM kit includes the parts required to replace a surface burner receptable on your range. The kit comes with a plastic block, a metal bracket, high temperature wire nuts, and wires. The b...
In Stock
$49.93
This is a kit of 4 drip bowls - Two 6" and two 8". All pans have holes in the bottom and they are light gray in color.
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In Stock
This 8 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 2100 watts and 240 volts. It has five turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
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This 6 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. It has four turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
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Special Order
$10.31
This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. This lock indicator light is used on a number of appliances. Most often it can be found in the assembly of ranges, dishwashers, washers, wal...
In Stock
This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This receptacle mounting bracket is designed for used with ranges, cooktops, and microwave oven combos. Exact placement varies depending on appliance, therefore...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CCE1400W
Viewing 3 of 3Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Oven is too hot
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Richard from Carthage, NC
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
My sister ... Read more 's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
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- Customer:
- James H from Oxford, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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I needed drip bowls that fit properly
I ordered gray enamel drip bowls and they fit perfectly. Unfortunately 2 of them were chipped and bent slightly. They still worked which was better than the make shift ill fitting ones that came with the house so I decided to keep them. I did tell parts select about it and they sent me a new order of drip pans at no charge. I used the
... Read more
perfect ones but the 8" drip pans flaked off paint after one use. I guess this is an Amana defect...the paint doesn't stick under heat.
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